As more and more people catch on to the wave of the automotive future - the hybrid car, more and more questions arise regarding these efficient, but somewhat mysterious vehicles. But just how do they work, are they reliable enough, and are they capable of being the car of the future?
So what is a Hybrid Car?
A hybrid car is any car that combines two or more sources of power, such as gasoline and a rechargeable battery. A hybrid-electric vehicle (HEV) combines the power of a gas engine with an electric motor. These dual engine systems can be configured for different purposes such as increasing the car’s power and improving fuel economy.
Components of a Hybrid Car
Components of an Hybrid car may include:
- Battery
- Electric motor
- Internal combustion engine (ICE)
- Generator
- Power split device
The Technological Advances
Some of the technological advances in the hybrid car industry include:
- Regenerative braking: This feature actually recycles energy when the cars brakes are applied. The electric motor is designed to exert resistance to the car’s drive train, which then causes its wheels to slow down. Energy from the wheels is then used to fuel the electric motor, which acts as a generator, converting the energy that would otherwise be wasted while braking into electricity that is stored in the battery until needed.
- Automatic start and shut-off: This feature automatically shuts off the engine when the car has come to a stop, then restarts it when the accelerator is touched. This eliminates the need to waste energy by idling the engine.
- Electric motor drive: The hybrid’s electric motor gives the car the added power it needs when accelerating, passing, or climbing hills. With this extra assistance, a smaller, more fuel efficient engine can be used.
Quick Information on How Hybrid Car Work
An internal combustion engine is “fueled” by a hybrid’s electric generator, which acts as the starter, and is used when first switching the car on. Once the ICE is heated up, it automatically shuts itself off with the electric motor taking over. Some hybrids will stay in an all electric mode until the car reaches a certain speed, usually about 15 mph. If there are no sudden accelerations, and the driver slowly makes a gradual increase in speed, these hybrids can still use all electricity for its power, saving gas, energy and a reducing harmful emissions.
A computer within the hybrid is responsible for determining how much power is needed from the ICE and how much should be used from the electric engine, depending on how fast the car is going. The computer continues to decide whether or not the electric motor should be used, or the internal combustion engine the entire time the car is running. Signals are sent to a gearbox known as the power split device, which uses a series of intricate gears that connect both the gas and electric engines/motors together.
The electric portion of the hybrid draws its power from a set of nickel hydride batteries. The computer also constantly monitors the amount of charge in the battery, keeping it at no less than 40 percent of its full capacity, and never more than 60 percent. The purpose of this is to keep the battery lasting as long as possible, which is usually a couple hundred thousand miles.
Upgrade Your Airsoft Gun with Airsoft Parts
Planning a Make-over?
You can outfit your airsoft gun inside and out. Whether you want better performance or parts replacement, you can get the right airsoft parts. The convenience of shopping for airsoft parts online makes it also easier for you to compare prices, and avail of discounted offers.
Majority of airsoft parts are manufactured in China, Taiwan, and Japan. The airsoft parts cater to all makes and designs of airsoft firearms; so getting one for your airsoft model will be fast and trouble-free. You will only have to be sure of what you want for your airsoft gun.
Before giving your airsoft rifle or handgun a make-over, have a ready plan: when to upgrade, what to upgrade, and how much you are going to spend. When doing the upgrading yourself have all airsoft parts ready. If you are not sure about your competence, get a pro to help you, or show you how it is done.
What Are These Airsoft Parts?
There are airsoft parts for internal and external upgrades. For internal upgrades, there are gearboxes and parts, cylinder pistons, and piston heads, bushings, gears and gear sets, springs and guides, nozzles, hop up rubber sets, motor barrels, inner barrels and other internal parts. For externals you can choose metal parts, optics, silencers, flash hiders, and much more.
Viewing those airsoft parts online can give you a better idea about overhauling your airsoft gun. If you are keen on replacing parts of your Tokyo Marui AK47, start with the gearbox. Perhaps you are aware that the limitations of the velocity of Japanese made airsoft guns are legal in nature not a flaw in design.
The gearbox is large enough to accommodate a bigger 8.4 volt battery. With a speed of 285 fps, your gun’s magazine will be tough enough to hold 68 bbs. Since this gun can switch from semi to full automatic, you will now have a powerful gun after you upgrade the gearbox. In most cases, before you do any upgrading you must have the complete airosoft parts.
Do-It-Yourself
You will need a Systema/Areal1000 metal bushings, hop up bucking, Guarder 50% ball bearings, Guarder Shim and Shim Set. You will be working on springs so get a PDI 150% Spring if you want more speed and velocity. You will be using several screwdrivers, which you can buy from the local hardware.
Go over instructional manuals carefully, and be sure you remove the battery before any disassembling. It will be practical to have ready containers for the tiny screws and bolts.
Upgrade Your Look
If you have done your airsoft rifle a service with airsoft parts, how about getting the latest protective gear for yourself? The vest, SWAT helmet, goggles and sunglasses, arm and leg holsters, and combat boots will give you the protection and appropriate look in your next battle.
You should also update yourself on the local regulations on airsoft firearms, and ensure that you store your guns out of the reach of children.
You can outfit your airsoft gun inside and out. Whether you want better performance or parts replacement, you can get the right airsoft parts. The convenience of shopping for airsoft parts online makes it also easier for you to compare prices, and avail of discounted offers.
Majority of airsoft parts are manufactured in China, Taiwan, and Japan. The airsoft parts cater to all makes and designs of airsoft firearms; so getting one for your airsoft model will be fast and trouble-free. You will only have to be sure of what you want for your airsoft gun.
Before giving your airsoft rifle or handgun a make-over, have a ready plan: when to upgrade, what to upgrade, and how much you are going to spend. When doing the upgrading yourself have all airsoft parts ready. If you are not sure about your competence, get a pro to help you, or show you how it is done.
What Are These Airsoft Parts?
There are airsoft parts for internal and external upgrades. For internal upgrades, there are gearboxes and parts, cylinder pistons, and piston heads, bushings, gears and gear sets, springs and guides, nozzles, hop up rubber sets, motor barrels, inner barrels and other internal parts. For externals you can choose metal parts, optics, silencers, flash hiders, and much more.
Viewing those airsoft parts online can give you a better idea about overhauling your airsoft gun. If you are keen on replacing parts of your Tokyo Marui AK47, start with the gearbox. Perhaps you are aware that the limitations of the velocity of Japanese made airsoft guns are legal in nature not a flaw in design.
The gearbox is large enough to accommodate a bigger 8.4 volt battery. With a speed of 285 fps, your gun’s magazine will be tough enough to hold 68 bbs. Since this gun can switch from semi to full automatic, you will now have a powerful gun after you upgrade the gearbox. In most cases, before you do any upgrading you must have the complete airosoft parts.
Do-It-Yourself
You will need a Systema/Areal1000 metal bushings, hop up bucking, Guarder 50% ball bearings, Guarder Shim and Shim Set. You will be working on springs so get a PDI 150% Spring if you want more speed and velocity. You will be using several screwdrivers, which you can buy from the local hardware.
Go over instructional manuals carefully, and be sure you remove the battery before any disassembling. It will be practical to have ready containers for the tiny screws and bolts.
Upgrade Your Look
If you have done your airsoft rifle a service with airsoft parts, how about getting the latest protective gear for yourself? The vest, SWAT helmet, goggles and sunglasses, arm and leg holsters, and combat boots will give you the protection and appropriate look in your next battle.
You should also update yourself on the local regulations on airsoft firearms, and ensure that you store your guns out of the reach of children.
Gray Market Tractors, What You Should Know and Check Before You Purchase
Before you begin to actually look at tractors you should know exactly what you are looking for.
Consider the following questions when shopping for a tractor.
What size of tractor do you need?
What are you going to be using you tractor for?
How often will the tractor be used?
Is the tractor going to be used to produce income? Of course, money is often a consideration when shopping for a tractor. Consider talking to people that own tractors and get their opinions. Be an informed shopper and don't let anyone rush you. Below are some other things to consider before you begin shopping for a tractor.
Tractor Size
This is obviously the most commonly asked questions regarding a tractor purchase. The average compact tractor consumer owns a 1-5 acre piece of property and uses the small compact diesel mostly for mowing The other tractor consumers usually have between 10-30 acres and needs about a 30 horsepower to complete the necessary tasks.
What are you going to use the tractor for?, is of course, the most important question to answer. Is it just for mowing or will you be using a loader or backhoe on it? Will you be working on rocky or uneven ground?
Dollars & Sense
You should definitely shop around, however, don't forget that if you are comparing the prices of different makes and models of tractor it can sometimes be much like comparing apples to oranges. As with anything else, some makes and models are made better than others. A few more dollars upfront in price for a better quality of tractor makes more 'sense' than having to pay the cost of constant repairs and maintenance.
Different Makes and Models of Tractors
If at all possible, one of the best things you can do to make your life easier, is to purchase a tractor that is easy to get parts for. There are many foreign makes and models that are exact matches to domestic tractors. With that in mind, you can get a parts book for U.S. made tractor and purchase the corresponding part numbers that way. Some parts dealers don't like to sell parts for a gray market tractor. In fact, dealers of some brands of tractors are being told by a higher authority that they cannot willingly sell parts for gray market tractors.
Diesel Engines
Make sure you get a tractor with a diesel engine. Diesel engines have better performance and usually last longer than gas engines. Implements also work better on diesel engine tractors.
Horsepower
Approximately how many horsepower will you need? One horsepower (hp) is the amount of energy required to lift 550 pounds, one foot, in one second. In a tractor the energy is produced from torque and engine speed. A 100 hp tractor is one with a maximum of 100 horsepower available at the power-takeoff (PTO) outlet. PTO
Nearly all Japanese tractor manufacturers include the power take off (PTO) horsepower (hp) in their model numbers; however, they do not include the engine (fly) hp. The first two numbers of the model number is where you find the PTO hp. The PTO hp is important because it is telling you the equipment working power of the tractor. It tells you what horsepower that equipment requiring a PTO will get from the tractor. Click here for a more in depth explanation of PTO.
Cylinders
Consider getting a three or four cylinder tractor. Three and four cylinder tractors are generally newer tractors and run quieter and smoother than the two cylinder models. Transmissions
There are several different types of transmissions for tractors. If you are not knowledgeable about tractor transmissions, it would be a good idea if you familiarize yourself with the different types listed below, so that when you go out to shop for a tractor you will well informed. Manual transmissions on tractors were made to be shifted while the tractor is not in motion. This will cause a grinding noise due to the fact the two gears that are trying to mesh are rotating at different speeds. Manual shift transmissions are known for their durability, however, they are not considered to be very user friendly. The sliding gear and the collar shift are two of the more common transmissions.
Synchro Shift transmissions are basically collar shift transmissions (a type of manual transmission, see above). The difference is the added synchronizers, which makes it so that the gears don't grind if you are trying to shift while the tractor is in motion. Some synchro shift transmissions only have one pair of synchronized gears, while others have all speeds synchronized, including forward and reverse. The synchronization of forward and reverse is called the shuttle shift. This synchro shift is a dependable transmission, however, just like with automobiles, the more 'tricky' the tranny is, and the more chance there is of something going wrong or breaking.
A Power Shift transmission is an option well worth considering. Not those standard shift transmissions won't work just fine; however, often power shift is a nice little luxury, depending on what you are going to be using the tractor for. With a power shift transmission you can choose different speeds while the tractor is in motion, without needing to use the clutch pedal.
Hydrostatic transmissions operate in a closed loop, the flow of the pump is reversed, which in turn causes the tractor to reverse directions. The hydrostatic transmission is considered to be very dependable and is able to defend itself against 'operator difficulty'. Because this is transmission is controlled by a foot pedal, when you take your foot off of the pedal the tractor will stop, this is a nice safety feature. Hydrostatic is considered the best selection for such things as large mowing jobs because it allows for easy direction change and continual, unchanging speed.
Implement Adaptability
You will want a tractor with a Category 1, 3-point hitch and standard rotation PTO shafts. Most imported compact tractors are equipped with these items; however, there are a few that are not.
Implement Availability
Before you purchase a a tractor, make sure that good quality implements are available for it. It is a good idea to try to find a tractor with as many model-specific attachments as possible. These include things such as loaders and backhoes, which have custom-fitted mounts that are not interchangeable with other makes and models of tractor. You can often save money if you purchase the implements at the same time you purchase the tractor and some implements can be very expensive to add on at a later time.
Parts Manuals
Sometime parts manuals can be very hard to acquire. Make sure there is one available for the tractor you choose. Ask how much the manual is, sometimes the cost can be over $100.00 dollars.
Warranty
Find out what kind of a warranty comes with the tractor. Find out what it covers and for how long. Below is a checklist that you can print and take with you when you are out shopping for a tractor. Just check things off and take notes as you check over the prospective tractor.
Yes, it's a very long checklist, but well worth your time if you want to get a good quality tractor at a fair price.
Some things on the checklist may not pertain to the type of tractor you are looking for; however, we believe that most folks will find the majority of information here to be very helpful.
Your goal is to ensure that the tractor you purchase is all that the seller says it is and doesn't have any hidden problems. Make sure you know what you are looking for. Know what options you must have on the tractor and which ones you might be willing to compromise on or be able to add later.
Tractor Buyer's Checklist
Make_____________________________ Model _____________________ Year _________ Hours
On Meter________ Asking Price $____________
Seller's Name _____________________________ Phone ______________
Tractor Location _______________________________________________
Yes/No Notes Visual Exterior Inspection
Does the overall appearance of the tractor look as if it has been cared for?
Why is the tractor for sale?
Is the paint faded?
Is the sheet metal straight?
Are there a lot of 'dings' in the tractor?
Are there any decaying rubber or plastic components?
Are there any structural cracks? Look closely for hairline cracks.
Is there anything that looks like a 'makeshift' repair job?
Are the tires in good condition with good tread left on them?
Is there a calcium mixture added to the tires for better stability?
Is there still good tread left on the tires?
Is the seat in good condition?
Does it have a standard 3-point hitch?
Are there any puddles of fluid under the tractor?
Are there any oil spots on the ground around the wheels?
Engine Inspection
Is the engine warm?
Are there oil and/or fuel on the engine?
Can you see any seals leaking?
Is there oil around the rear axles, near the rear wheel?
Is there oil around the PTO seals?
Are there oil leaks around the output shaft seals gearboxes? (4WD
Is the engine oil at or near the full mark?
Is the front axle dipstick at or near the full mark? (4WD)
Does the oil look clean? Black is ok for diesel engines.
Are there creamy white droplets near the top of the dipstick?
Are all the filters U.S. made?
Is the air filter intact?
Does the air filter have any tears or holes in it?
Is the fuel filter clean?
Is the fan belt tight and in good shape?
Does the air inlet tube have any cracks or holes in it?
Is the water in the radiator dark green? This is a good thing.
Does the radiator water have a milky looking scum to it?
Is there flaking or discolored paint around the radiator cap?
Is there moisture along the bottom of the radiator?
Is there any slop in the steering linkages?
Did you closely look over the tractor a second time to make sure you didn't miss anything?
Running Engine Inspection
Does the oil pressure register when you just turn the key?
Start the tractor. Does it start easily?
Does the oil pressure light go off or the oil gauge go up to about 30-80 psi?
Do all of the other lights go off?
Is the voltage meter (if it has one) charging a full 13.5-14.5 volts
Did you rock the steering wheel from left to right? Do this with the engine running if the
tractor has power steering.
Does the PTO spin in all gears?
Does the 3-point hitch work properly?
Does the tractor continue to smoke after it warms up?
Driving The Tractor (This is the fun part)
Does the tractor work through all of the gears?
Does the power shift feel 'weak' when shifting?
Is there any slippage when you quickly accelerate into high gear?
Does the 4WD engage properly?
Does the clutch slip?
Do the brakes work well?
Did you check the brakes by pushing one pedal at a time in low gear?
Does the tractor make any clunking noises from inside the engine?
Does the charging system work properly?
Do the wheels wobble at all?
Hydraulics
Are the control levers in good shape and not flopping around?
Are the pivot pins badly worn?
Does any oil seep out of the extended spools (control valves)?
Are the hydraulic couplers capped?
Does the hydraulics work correctly?
Post Driving Inspection
Did the temp gauge ever get above the recommended temperature?
Did the temp light ever come on while you were driving it?
Did the tractor overheat?
Did the tractor run well even after it got hot?
Do you see any new leaks from the radiator?
Do you see any new oil and or fluid leaks?
Did you see excess smoke when you removed the oil cap?
Did you closely look over the tractor a third time to make sure you didn't miss anything?
I Hope this has been a lot of information that you where looking for and you will use this information to your advantage and be safe with it.
Consider the following questions when shopping for a tractor.
What size of tractor do you need?
What are you going to be using you tractor for?
How often will the tractor be used?
Is the tractor going to be used to produce income? Of course, money is often a consideration when shopping for a tractor. Consider talking to people that own tractors and get their opinions. Be an informed shopper and don't let anyone rush you. Below are some other things to consider before you begin shopping for a tractor.
Tractor Size
This is obviously the most commonly asked questions regarding a tractor purchase. The average compact tractor consumer owns a 1-5 acre piece of property and uses the small compact diesel mostly for mowing The other tractor consumers usually have between 10-30 acres and needs about a 30 horsepower to complete the necessary tasks.
What are you going to use the tractor for?, is of course, the most important question to answer. Is it just for mowing or will you be using a loader or backhoe on it? Will you be working on rocky or uneven ground?
Dollars & Sense
You should definitely shop around, however, don't forget that if you are comparing the prices of different makes and models of tractor it can sometimes be much like comparing apples to oranges. As with anything else, some makes and models are made better than others. A few more dollars upfront in price for a better quality of tractor makes more 'sense' than having to pay the cost of constant repairs and maintenance.
Different Makes and Models of Tractors
If at all possible, one of the best things you can do to make your life easier, is to purchase a tractor that is easy to get parts for. There are many foreign makes and models that are exact matches to domestic tractors. With that in mind, you can get a parts book for U.S. made tractor and purchase the corresponding part numbers that way. Some parts dealers don't like to sell parts for a gray market tractor. In fact, dealers of some brands of tractors are being told by a higher authority that they cannot willingly sell parts for gray market tractors.
Diesel Engines
Make sure you get a tractor with a diesel engine. Diesel engines have better performance and usually last longer than gas engines. Implements also work better on diesel engine tractors.
Horsepower
Approximately how many horsepower will you need? One horsepower (hp) is the amount of energy required to lift 550 pounds, one foot, in one second. In a tractor the energy is produced from torque and engine speed. A 100 hp tractor is one with a maximum of 100 horsepower available at the power-takeoff (PTO) outlet. PTO
Nearly all Japanese tractor manufacturers include the power take off (PTO) horsepower (hp) in their model numbers; however, they do not include the engine (fly) hp. The first two numbers of the model number is where you find the PTO hp. The PTO hp is important because it is telling you the equipment working power of the tractor. It tells you what horsepower that equipment requiring a PTO will get from the tractor. Click here for a more in depth explanation of PTO.
Cylinders
Consider getting a three or four cylinder tractor. Three and four cylinder tractors are generally newer tractors and run quieter and smoother than the two cylinder models. Transmissions
There are several different types of transmissions for tractors. If you are not knowledgeable about tractor transmissions, it would be a good idea if you familiarize yourself with the different types listed below, so that when you go out to shop for a tractor you will well informed. Manual transmissions on tractors were made to be shifted while the tractor is not in motion. This will cause a grinding noise due to the fact the two gears that are trying to mesh are rotating at different speeds. Manual shift transmissions are known for their durability, however, they are not considered to be very user friendly. The sliding gear and the collar shift are two of the more common transmissions.
Synchro Shift transmissions are basically collar shift transmissions (a type of manual transmission, see above). The difference is the added synchronizers, which makes it so that the gears don't grind if you are trying to shift while the tractor is in motion. Some synchro shift transmissions only have one pair of synchronized gears, while others have all speeds synchronized, including forward and reverse. The synchronization of forward and reverse is called the shuttle shift. This synchro shift is a dependable transmission, however, just like with automobiles, the more 'tricky' the tranny is, and the more chance there is of something going wrong or breaking.
A Power Shift transmission is an option well worth considering. Not those standard shift transmissions won't work just fine; however, often power shift is a nice little luxury, depending on what you are going to be using the tractor for. With a power shift transmission you can choose different speeds while the tractor is in motion, without needing to use the clutch pedal.
Hydrostatic transmissions operate in a closed loop, the flow of the pump is reversed, which in turn causes the tractor to reverse directions. The hydrostatic transmission is considered to be very dependable and is able to defend itself against 'operator difficulty'. Because this is transmission is controlled by a foot pedal, when you take your foot off of the pedal the tractor will stop, this is a nice safety feature. Hydrostatic is considered the best selection for such things as large mowing jobs because it allows for easy direction change and continual, unchanging speed.
Implement Adaptability
You will want a tractor with a Category 1, 3-point hitch and standard rotation PTO shafts. Most imported compact tractors are equipped with these items; however, there are a few that are not.
Implement Availability
Before you purchase a a tractor, make sure that good quality implements are available for it. It is a good idea to try to find a tractor with as many model-specific attachments as possible. These include things such as loaders and backhoes, which have custom-fitted mounts that are not interchangeable with other makes and models of tractor. You can often save money if you purchase the implements at the same time you purchase the tractor and some implements can be very expensive to add on at a later time.
Parts Manuals
Sometime parts manuals can be very hard to acquire. Make sure there is one available for the tractor you choose. Ask how much the manual is, sometimes the cost can be over $100.00 dollars.
Warranty
Find out what kind of a warranty comes with the tractor. Find out what it covers and for how long. Below is a checklist that you can print and take with you when you are out shopping for a tractor. Just check things off and take notes as you check over the prospective tractor.
Yes, it's a very long checklist, but well worth your time if you want to get a good quality tractor at a fair price.
Some things on the checklist may not pertain to the type of tractor you are looking for; however, we believe that most folks will find the majority of information here to be very helpful.
Your goal is to ensure that the tractor you purchase is all that the seller says it is and doesn't have any hidden problems. Make sure you know what you are looking for. Know what options you must have on the tractor and which ones you might be willing to compromise on or be able to add later.
Tractor Buyer's Checklist
Make_____________________________ Model _____________________ Year _________ Hours
On Meter________ Asking Price $____________
Seller's Name _____________________________ Phone ______________
Tractor Location _______________________________________________
Yes/No Notes Visual Exterior Inspection
Does the overall appearance of the tractor look as if it has been cared for?
Why is the tractor for sale?
Is the paint faded?
Is the sheet metal straight?
Are there a lot of 'dings' in the tractor?
Are there any decaying rubber or plastic components?
Are there any structural cracks? Look closely for hairline cracks.
Is there anything that looks like a 'makeshift' repair job?
Are the tires in good condition with good tread left on them?
Is there a calcium mixture added to the tires for better stability?
Is there still good tread left on the tires?
Is the seat in good condition?
Does it have a standard 3-point hitch?
Are there any puddles of fluid under the tractor?
Are there any oil spots on the ground around the wheels?
Engine Inspection
Is the engine warm?
Are there oil and/or fuel on the engine?
Can you see any seals leaking?
Is there oil around the rear axles, near the rear wheel?
Is there oil around the PTO seals?
Are there oil leaks around the output shaft seals gearboxes? (4WD
Is the engine oil at or near the full mark?
Is the front axle dipstick at or near the full mark? (4WD)
Does the oil look clean? Black is ok for diesel engines.
Are there creamy white droplets near the top of the dipstick?
Are all the filters U.S. made?
Is the air filter intact?
Does the air filter have any tears or holes in it?
Is the fuel filter clean?
Is the fan belt tight and in good shape?
Does the air inlet tube have any cracks or holes in it?
Is the water in the radiator dark green? This is a good thing.
Does the radiator water have a milky looking scum to it?
Is there flaking or discolored paint around the radiator cap?
Is there moisture along the bottom of the radiator?
Is there any slop in the steering linkages?
Did you closely look over the tractor a second time to make sure you didn't miss anything?
Running Engine Inspection
Does the oil pressure register when you just turn the key?
Start the tractor. Does it start easily?
Does the oil pressure light go off or the oil gauge go up to about 30-80 psi?
Do all of the other lights go off?
Is the voltage meter (if it has one) charging a full 13.5-14.5 volts
Did you rock the steering wheel from left to right? Do this with the engine running if the
tractor has power steering.
Does the PTO spin in all gears?
Does the 3-point hitch work properly?
Does the tractor continue to smoke after it warms up?
Driving The Tractor (This is the fun part)
Does the tractor work through all of the gears?
Does the power shift feel 'weak' when shifting?
Is there any slippage when you quickly accelerate into high gear?
Does the 4WD engage properly?
Does the clutch slip?
Do the brakes work well?
Did you check the brakes by pushing one pedal at a time in low gear?
Does the tractor make any clunking noises from inside the engine?
Does the charging system work properly?
Do the wheels wobble at all?
Hydraulics
Are the control levers in good shape and not flopping around?
Are the pivot pins badly worn?
Does any oil seep out of the extended spools (control valves)?
Are the hydraulic couplers capped?
Does the hydraulics work correctly?
Post Driving Inspection
Did the temp gauge ever get above the recommended temperature?
Did the temp light ever come on while you were driving it?
Did the tractor overheat?
Did the tractor run well even after it got hot?
Do you see any new leaks from the radiator?
Do you see any new oil and or fluid leaks?
Did you see excess smoke when you removed the oil cap?
Did you closely look over the tractor a third time to make sure you didn't miss anything?
I Hope this has been a lot of information that you where looking for and you will use this information to your advantage and be safe with it.
Used Cars - Second Hand Cars - Tips For Buying
Don't buy a car in the rain, the bodywork always looks better when it's wet, plus, the chances are you will forget to check something by rushing to get out of the rain.
Stand at the front, or the back of the car, and look along the body line. You will be able to see if it has had any body damage as the light reflecting off the side of the car will show the dents or replaced panels.
Check around the window rubbers for over spray, a sure fire way to see if a car as been touched up.
Check the gaps between the panels to make sure they are even on both sides of the car. Bonnet to wing etc. This is a good indication as to whether the car has been in an accident and had panels replaced.
Take a fridge magnet with you and check the bodywork for filler. The magnet will stick to the metal, but will fall off if it meets body filler.
Have a look at the interior of the car, does the wear inside the car look in keeping with the mileage. If the car looks like its done 100,000 and the clock says 25,000. Then you know its been round the clock, or even worse clocked. Check the steering wheel, and accelerator pedal rubber for excessive wear, the clutch and brake pedal rubbers can be replaced, but the accelerator pedal is a lot harder to change, and will give a truer indication of mileage.
Check underneath the car for any oil or water leaks, also check the floor where the car has been standing for the same.
Check the tires for uneven wear, if the tires are worn more on one side than the other its an indication that the car may have been in an accident and the chassis is twisted. It could also be the tracking or wheel balancing. Either way its not a good sign.
Drive the car, (with the radio off) and check for any knocks or strange noises. Check the steering for vibration, or pulling to one side, its an indication again that the car may have been in an accident and the chassis is twisted. Make sure you drive the car in all gears to check the gearbox.
Try a 3 point turn in the car, that will check the reverse gear, and if you put the steering on full lock you will be able to check the wheel bearings and steering rack (your looking for clunking sounds or creaking).
When the engine is now hot check the oil, if it is milky there is water getting in somewhere, which could indicate a head gasket. (very Costly). The oil should be filled to between the 2 marks on the dipstick. If the oil is brand new beware, not many people will change the oil on a car the day before they sell it unless they are trying to hide something. Also check the water reservoir for signs of oil, not a good sign.
Last of all, check the paperwork. Make sure the registration document is in the sellers name. They may be a trader trying to pose as a private seller. Check the MOT to make sure its current. Check the service history to make sure it matches the vehicle being sold. Also you may want to check the engine and chassis number to see if it matches what is on the registration document. You will find that information on a small metal plate located under the bonnet. If the plate is missing be suspicious.
It's also a good idea to get the car HPI checked. This will tell you if the car has been stolen, been in an and accident, or is on finance. It costs around £40 but well worth it.
Stand at the front, or the back of the car, and look along the body line. You will be able to see if it has had any body damage as the light reflecting off the side of the car will show the dents or replaced panels.
Check around the window rubbers for over spray, a sure fire way to see if a car as been touched up.
Check the gaps between the panels to make sure they are even on both sides of the car. Bonnet to wing etc. This is a good indication as to whether the car has been in an accident and had panels replaced.
Take a fridge magnet with you and check the bodywork for filler. The magnet will stick to the metal, but will fall off if it meets body filler.
Have a look at the interior of the car, does the wear inside the car look in keeping with the mileage. If the car looks like its done 100,000 and the clock says 25,000. Then you know its been round the clock, or even worse clocked. Check the steering wheel, and accelerator pedal rubber for excessive wear, the clutch and brake pedal rubbers can be replaced, but the accelerator pedal is a lot harder to change, and will give a truer indication of mileage.
Check underneath the car for any oil or water leaks, also check the floor where the car has been standing for the same.
Check the tires for uneven wear, if the tires are worn more on one side than the other its an indication that the car may have been in an accident and the chassis is twisted. It could also be the tracking or wheel balancing. Either way its not a good sign.
Drive the car, (with the radio off) and check for any knocks or strange noises. Check the steering for vibration, or pulling to one side, its an indication again that the car may have been in an accident and the chassis is twisted. Make sure you drive the car in all gears to check the gearbox.
Try a 3 point turn in the car, that will check the reverse gear, and if you put the steering on full lock you will be able to check the wheel bearings and steering rack (your looking for clunking sounds or creaking).
When the engine is now hot check the oil, if it is milky there is water getting in somewhere, which could indicate a head gasket. (very Costly). The oil should be filled to between the 2 marks on the dipstick. If the oil is brand new beware, not many people will change the oil on a car the day before they sell it unless they are trying to hide something. Also check the water reservoir for signs of oil, not a good sign.
Last of all, check the paperwork. Make sure the registration document is in the sellers name. They may be a trader trying to pose as a private seller. Check the MOT to make sure its current. Check the service history to make sure it matches the vehicle being sold. Also you may want to check the engine and chassis number to see if it matches what is on the registration document. You will find that information on a small metal plate located under the bonnet. If the plate is missing be suspicious.
It's also a good idea to get the car HPI checked. This will tell you if the car has been stolen, been in an and accident, or is on finance. It costs around £40 but well worth it.
BOC To Supply Gases and Technical Support To Hawk Corporation
BOC (NYSE:BOX) and Hawk Corporation (NYSE:HWK) have signed a multi-year contract for the supply of gases, equipment, technical support and consulting services at eight of Hawk's 16 world wide facilities.
Hawk manufactures specialized components used in a variety of end markets including industrial, commercial, and aerospace applications.
Under the agreement, which has an estimated total lifetime value of more than US $3 million, BOC will supply Hawk with liquid hydrogen, liquid nitrogen, three nitrogen on-site production units, cylinder gases and technical solutions and consultative services to Hawk's Precision Components and Wellman Products divisions.
Bob Conrad, vice president, purchasing, Hawk, said, "BOC has the technical capability and global reach that we are looking for in a supply partner. This agreement will enable us to consolidate our supplier base, reduce our gases spend and raise our technical expertise."
Scott Kallman, vice president and general manager for BOC's Eastern region, said, "We are looking forward to working with Hawk in the future. Plans are already under way to implement our patented sinter hardening technology, and we have begun discussions on the possibility of conducting joint research in this and other powdered metal areas."
Hawk Corporation is a leading worldwide supplier of highly engineered products. Its friction products group is a leading supplier of friction materials for brakes, clutches and transmissions used in airplanes, trucks, construction equipment, farm equipment and recreational vehicles. Through its precision components group, the company is a leading supplier of powder metal and metal injection molded components for industrial applications, including pump, motor and transmission elements, gears, pistons and anti-lock sensor rings. The Company's performance automotive group manufactures clutches and gearboxes for motorsport applications and performance automotive markets. The Company's motor group designs and manufactures die-cast aluminum rotors for fractional and subfractional electric motors used in appliances, business equipment and HVAC systems. Headquartered in Cleveland, Ohio, Hawk has approximately 1,680 employees and 16 manufacturing sites in five countries.
Hawk manufactures specialized components used in a variety of end markets including industrial, commercial, and aerospace applications.
Under the agreement, which has an estimated total lifetime value of more than US $3 million, BOC will supply Hawk with liquid hydrogen, liquid nitrogen, three nitrogen on-site production units, cylinder gases and technical solutions and consultative services to Hawk's Precision Components and Wellman Products divisions.
Bob Conrad, vice president, purchasing, Hawk, said, "BOC has the technical capability and global reach that we are looking for in a supply partner. This agreement will enable us to consolidate our supplier base, reduce our gases spend and raise our technical expertise."
Scott Kallman, vice president and general manager for BOC's Eastern region, said, "We are looking forward to working with Hawk in the future. Plans are already under way to implement our patented sinter hardening technology, and we have begun discussions on the possibility of conducting joint research in this and other powdered metal areas."
Hawk Corporation is a leading worldwide supplier of highly engineered products. Its friction products group is a leading supplier of friction materials for brakes, clutches and transmissions used in airplanes, trucks, construction equipment, farm equipment and recreational vehicles. Through its precision components group, the company is a leading supplier of powder metal and metal injection molded components for industrial applications, including pump, motor and transmission elements, gears, pistons and anti-lock sensor rings. The Company's performance automotive group manufactures clutches and gearboxes for motorsport applications and performance automotive markets. The Company's motor group designs and manufactures die-cast aluminum rotors for fractional and subfractional electric motors used in appliances, business equipment and HVAC systems. Headquartered in Cleveland, Ohio, Hawk has approximately 1,680 employees and 16 manufacturing sites in five countries.
ChevronTexaco Global Lubricants Introduces New Turbine Oil For Gas, Steam and Combined Cycle Turbines
ChevronTexaco Global Lubricants, a leading provider of industrial lubricants and reliability solutions, today introduced a new turbine oil formulated to properly lubricate and protect against the harsh conditions found in turbines and gearboxes. The new product, which will be marketed as both Chevron GST 2300 and Texaco Regal Premium EP, is a premium performance turbine lubricant designed for gas, steam and combined cycle turbines, with or without loaded gearboxes. The product's performance characteristics allow it to maintain consistent viscosity, effective sludge control and eliminate the need for separate turbine and gearbox oils.
"In field trials, turbines running our new oil ran twice as long as those using a conventional lubricant," said Katherine Johnson, Industrial Specialist, ChevronTexaco Global Lubricants. "The product exceeds all critical OEM specifications for gas, steam, and highly-loaded gear turbines. It also has an RBOT value of 2300 minutes. No other non-synthetic turbine oil available today can make that claim. When you combine our new turbine oil with ChevronTexaco Global Lubricant's line of industrial heat transfer fluids, coolants and solutions, you create a complete offering for the power generation market that few, if any, can match."
Chevron GST 2300 and Texaco Regal Premium EP Benefits of Chevron GST 2300 and Texaco Regal Premium ED include the excellent water separability characteristics, which allow the oil to maintain a high film strength coating on critical wear points of bearings and gear reducers and assure rapid removal of water contamination. The corrosion inhibition feature protects turbine shafts, gears and lubrication system parts from corrosion and rusting and the foam inhibition element prevents sump overflow.
Additional product benefits include:
-- Superior oxidation stability for long service at elevated
temperatures
-- Protection from sludge and varnish formation
-- Simplified inventory: One lubricant for gearboxes and turbines
-- High viscosity index assuring minimum viscosity change with
temperature variations
-- Quick air release minimizing the possibility of pump
cavitation in systems with high circulation rates and small
reservoirs
-- Formulated with ISOSYN base stocks
The new turbine oil, available in ISO 32 and 46, can be obtained through ChevronTexaco marketers in North America by May 2004.
Chevron GST 2300 and Texaco Regal Premium EP ISO 32 .
Chevron GST 2300 and Texaco Regal Premium EP are not recommended for aeroderivative gas turbines, for this application ChevronTexaco Global Lubricants recommends Chevron Synthetic Turbine Oil SGT and Texaco Regal SGT 22.
About ChevronTexaco Global Lubricants
ChevronTexaco Global Lubricants (CTGL) is a leader in providing lubrication products and solutions to retail consumers, and commercial and industrial customers. Headquartered in San Ramon, Calif., CTGL is ranked among the top three global marketers of lubricants, and together with its many affiliates worldwide, is active in 186 countries through 4,000 employees. Its worldwide presence enables the company to be a local provider of superior service with global resources. CTGL is a division of a wholly owned subsidiary of ChevronTexaco Corporation (NYSE:CVX).
CTGL markets a full line of lubrication and coolant products under the Chevron, Texaco and Caltex brand names. Select brands include Superla(R), Havoline(R), Delo(R), Ursa(R), Revtex(R) and Texaco Xpress Lube(R). The company has patented technology in advanced lubricants products and new generation base oil technology, as well as in more diverse areas such as coolants and crop protection.
"In field trials, turbines running our new oil ran twice as long as those using a conventional lubricant," said Katherine Johnson, Industrial Specialist, ChevronTexaco Global Lubricants. "The product exceeds all critical OEM specifications for gas, steam, and highly-loaded gear turbines. It also has an RBOT value of 2300 minutes. No other non-synthetic turbine oil available today can make that claim. When you combine our new turbine oil with ChevronTexaco Global Lubricant's line of industrial heat transfer fluids, coolants and solutions, you create a complete offering for the power generation market that few, if any, can match."
Chevron GST 2300 and Texaco Regal Premium EP Benefits of Chevron GST 2300 and Texaco Regal Premium ED include the excellent water separability characteristics, which allow the oil to maintain a high film strength coating on critical wear points of bearings and gear reducers and assure rapid removal of water contamination. The corrosion inhibition feature protects turbine shafts, gears and lubrication system parts from corrosion and rusting and the foam inhibition element prevents sump overflow.
Additional product benefits include:
-- Superior oxidation stability for long service at elevated
temperatures
-- Protection from sludge and varnish formation
-- Simplified inventory: One lubricant for gearboxes and turbines
-- High viscosity index assuring minimum viscosity change with
temperature variations
-- Quick air release minimizing the possibility of pump
cavitation in systems with high circulation rates and small
reservoirs
-- Formulated with ISOSYN base stocks
The new turbine oil, available in ISO 32 and 46, can be obtained through ChevronTexaco marketers in North America by May 2004.
Chevron GST 2300 and Texaco Regal Premium EP ISO 32 .
Chevron GST 2300 and Texaco Regal Premium EP are not recommended for aeroderivative gas turbines, for this application ChevronTexaco Global Lubricants recommends Chevron Synthetic Turbine Oil SGT and Texaco Regal SGT 22.
About ChevronTexaco Global Lubricants
ChevronTexaco Global Lubricants (CTGL) is a leader in providing lubrication products and solutions to retail consumers, and commercial and industrial customers. Headquartered in San Ramon, Calif., CTGL is ranked among the top three global marketers of lubricants, and together with its many affiliates worldwide, is active in 186 countries through 4,000 employees. Its worldwide presence enables the company to be a local provider of superior service with global resources. CTGL is a division of a wholly owned subsidiary of ChevronTexaco Corporation (NYSE:CVX).
CTGL markets a full line of lubrication and coolant products under the Chevron, Texaco and Caltex brand names. Select brands include Superla(R), Havoline(R), Delo(R), Ursa(R), Revtex(R) and Texaco Xpress Lube(R). The company has patented technology in advanced lubricants products and new generation base oil technology, as well as in more diverse areas such as coolants and crop protection.
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