Playing any kind of sports cannot only be a great way to get in shape, it can also improve your overall health and provide a healthy outlet for your emotions. Whether you're an active member of any sports team or you just like to jog around the block every morning, believe it or not, you're also increasing your chances of acquiring certain skin conditions.
A fairly common acne condition you might get when playing any kind of sports is Acne mechanica. This condition is triggered by the humid environment usually present in gyms and locker rooms, excess sweat, friction, and heat caused by tight athletic gears or outfits.
If you're not sure what causes the acne on your back or shoulders, it might be the sports gear you use. Take note of these following situations that usually lead to acne mechanica:
- You regularly wear protective gears such as caps or helmets and you notice zits growing on the area covered by your helmet.
- The area covered by your knee pads starts to develop zits and acne-like rashes.
- The strap of your backpack seems to irritate your shoulders because zits start to sprout even though you never had acne on that area before.
- The breakouts on your legs seem to worsen every time you wear your favorite skinny jeans.
- Areas covered by your tight brassiere start to develop rashes and pimples.
In some cases, this condition can be triggered if you have “sandpaper acne” prior to using tight sports outfits or gears. Despite the possibility of getting acne mechanica, however, you shouldn't be discouraged to try out for your college soccer team since there are many ways to prevent and treat this condition:
- Always wash your sports outfits and use only clean shirts made of breathable fabrics.
- Try to avoid wearing man-made fabrics such as polyester since these kinds of cloths do not absorb excess sweat.
- If your sports gear is too tight, try to loosen it up a bit or wear a breathable fabric underneath to protect your skin.
- If you really don't need to wear a headband or a hat, then don't wear it at all. Prolonged use of tight headbands and caps can trap in the excess oils and might provide a excessively humid environment for the pimple-causing bacteria to grow.
- Clean your sports gears on a regular basis to prevent build-up of bacteria and excess sweat.
- Do not rigorously scrub any area that might be affected by this skin condition since friction might cause more breakouts.
- After cooling down, try to take a shower immediately to remove excess oils and relieve your skin of the friction and heat that might be caused by your uniform.
- Try applying medications on the affected area. OTC treatments such as benzoyl peroxide, resorcinol, and salicylic acid can help remove those acne-like rashes.
If your acne mechanica doesn't improve after trying out these tips, you can try to consult a dermatologist for a more effective treatment.
The Oldest Computer Of The World!
Thanks to the sophisticated techniques of radiography and imagery, an international team of researchers comes to elucidate the operation of one of the most mysterious objects of ancient Greece. Discovered in 1901 in a Roman wreck, it would be about a very sophisticated mechanical computer dedicated to the study of the astronomical phenomena. Of frightening complexity, it counted at least 37 bronze gears gone up in a box out of wooden of 31x19x10 cm. On the back face, two large dials in spiral indicated the phases of the Moon and made it possible to predict the eclipses.
On the front face, a dial posted the position of Sun and the Moon compared to the stars. The mention of the Venus planet leaves think that other indicators, now disappeared, reproduced on this same dial the trajectory of five planets known at the time.
Fortunately for the researchers, the originators of the mechanism described the operation of certain components on its case! Indeed, its refinement is such as a pair of offset gears simulated the modification the apparent speed of the Moon caused by the eccentricity of its orbit! Moreover, one device quite as clever introduced a correction for the leap years.
The Greek astronomer Hipparque or one of his disciples probably took part in his manufacture between 150 and 100 before our era. It would be necessary to wait more than a thousand years before finding comparable machines. Who knows which other technological wonders of Antiquity disappeared without a trace?
The technology was originally developed not for archeology, but as a method for improving photo realism and rendering efficiency in 3D graphics. It also could be used in criminal forensics, detecting distinctive characteristics in footprints or tire marks, for example. The technology also still has potential commercial uses for HP, but many of the techniques have been made available to the scientific world for academic purposes.
On the front face, a dial posted the position of Sun and the Moon compared to the stars. The mention of the Venus planet leaves think that other indicators, now disappeared, reproduced on this same dial the trajectory of five planets known at the time.
Fortunately for the researchers, the originators of the mechanism described the operation of certain components on its case! Indeed, its refinement is such as a pair of offset gears simulated the modification the apparent speed of the Moon caused by the eccentricity of its orbit! Moreover, one device quite as clever introduced a correction for the leap years.
The Greek astronomer Hipparque or one of his disciples probably took part in his manufacture between 150 and 100 before our era. It would be necessary to wait more than a thousand years before finding comparable machines. Who knows which other technological wonders of Antiquity disappeared without a trace?
The technology was originally developed not for archeology, but as a method for improving photo realism and rendering efficiency in 3D graphics. It also could be used in criminal forensics, detecting distinctive characteristics in footprints or tire marks, for example. The technology also still has potential commercial uses for HP, but many of the techniques have been made available to the scientific world for academic purposes.
Toyota Lexus GS300: Venerable Luxury with Durable Toyota Parts
High equipment levels and meticulous quality and refinement have been the formula for building and maintaining the Lexus. It embodies a fresh design approach, re-engineered from the ground up.
Dominated by a long cabin with steeply angled front and rear glass, the windows allow plenty of light into the well-organized interior. The Rear passengers get plenty of legroom – the wheelbase has been lengthened by 50mm – and large quarter-windows.
The GS300 Sports at $95,000 includes climate control, heated and ventilated front seats, auto headlights and wipers, reversing camera and steering wheel audio controls. The Sports Luxury model tested here adds satellite navigation, a sunroof, intelligent cruise control, parking sensors and an excellent Mark Levinson stereo system.
Operating full time, the GS300's all-wheel-drive system features a planetary gearset and a wet, multidisc clutch to couple the primary drive wheels, at the rear, to the front. The standard torque split is 30/70 front to rear, but the system's electronic brain can vary that to 50/50, making its judgments based on various driver inputs such as throttle angle and steering angle, and vehicle data such as wheel speed and yaw rate
Every GS has three variations of a new close-ratio six-speed automatic transmission, each designed for optimum performance with their respective GS applications. One of the smallest and lightest gearboxes of its type, it includes a sequential manual shift mode, with gear changes made via a lever in the center console. An outstanding feature of the car is the all-wheel-drive system. The more slippery the road, the more pronounced is its advantage over conventional two-wheel-drive systems.
The car has an all-new 3.0-liter DOHC 24-valve aluminum V-6, which replaces an iron-block straight six of identical displacement. With Toyota's VVT-i variable-valve-timing system operating on cams, plus direct injection, plus a formidable 11.5:1 compression ratio, the new six generates 245 horsepower and 230 pound-feet of torque, compared with 220 of each for its predecessor. The new V-6 is bolted to an equally new six-speed automatic transmission, featuring manumatic shifting and an electronic brain that does a good job of avoiding excessive hunting, particularly in uphill runs.
Other features include leather-trimmed, heated front seats with 10-way power adjustment; SmartAccess keyless entry and a pushbutton starter; a premium sound system with both CD and DVD capability; Bluetooth wireless telephone technology; and a 7-inch multi-information touch screen for easy access to a wide range of information and commands.
Options include: a steering-sensitive Park Assist system; DVD navigation system and rear backup camera; one-touch open/close moon roof; ventilated front seats; power rear sunshade. It also has an eardrum-pounding, wallet-smashing Mark Levinson audio system, its 11 channels of sonic wash flowing through 14 speakers, Rain-Sensing Wiper package that includes adaptive front lighting and headlamp washers (standard on the GS 430); a rear spoiler; and all-season run-flat tires. Luxurious amenities, exquisite quality, and remarkable technology—these are all the things that make up a Lexus. Partstrain likewise strives to preserve these qualities in delivering only the best Toyota Replacement Parts, Performance Parts, OEM and Aftermarket Parts.
As many customers are satisfied with Toyota cars, Parts Train has been the top choice of millions of Toyota owners for many years. Its diverse line of excellent Toyota replacement car parts, auto body parts, Toyota interior parts and Toyota exterior parts, Toyota motor parts and more can be found at its online store.
Dominated by a long cabin with steeply angled front and rear glass, the windows allow plenty of light into the well-organized interior. The Rear passengers get plenty of legroom – the wheelbase has been lengthened by 50mm – and large quarter-windows.
The GS300 Sports at $95,000 includes climate control, heated and ventilated front seats, auto headlights and wipers, reversing camera and steering wheel audio controls. The Sports Luxury model tested here adds satellite navigation, a sunroof, intelligent cruise control, parking sensors and an excellent Mark Levinson stereo system.
Operating full time, the GS300's all-wheel-drive system features a planetary gearset and a wet, multidisc clutch to couple the primary drive wheels, at the rear, to the front. The standard torque split is 30/70 front to rear, but the system's electronic brain can vary that to 50/50, making its judgments based on various driver inputs such as throttle angle and steering angle, and vehicle data such as wheel speed and yaw rate
Every GS has three variations of a new close-ratio six-speed automatic transmission, each designed for optimum performance with their respective GS applications. One of the smallest and lightest gearboxes of its type, it includes a sequential manual shift mode, with gear changes made via a lever in the center console. An outstanding feature of the car is the all-wheel-drive system. The more slippery the road, the more pronounced is its advantage over conventional two-wheel-drive systems.
The car has an all-new 3.0-liter DOHC 24-valve aluminum V-6, which replaces an iron-block straight six of identical displacement. With Toyota's VVT-i variable-valve-timing system operating on cams, plus direct injection, plus a formidable 11.5:1 compression ratio, the new six generates 245 horsepower and 230 pound-feet of torque, compared with 220 of each for its predecessor. The new V-6 is bolted to an equally new six-speed automatic transmission, featuring manumatic shifting and an electronic brain that does a good job of avoiding excessive hunting, particularly in uphill runs.
Other features include leather-trimmed, heated front seats with 10-way power adjustment; SmartAccess keyless entry and a pushbutton starter; a premium sound system with both CD and DVD capability; Bluetooth wireless telephone technology; and a 7-inch multi-information touch screen for easy access to a wide range of information and commands.
Options include: a steering-sensitive Park Assist system; DVD navigation system and rear backup camera; one-touch open/close moon roof; ventilated front seats; power rear sunshade. It also has an eardrum-pounding, wallet-smashing Mark Levinson audio system, its 11 channels of sonic wash flowing through 14 speakers, Rain-Sensing Wiper package that includes adaptive front lighting and headlamp washers (standard on the GS 430); a rear spoiler; and all-season run-flat tires. Luxurious amenities, exquisite quality, and remarkable technology—these are all the things that make up a Lexus. Partstrain likewise strives to preserve these qualities in delivering only the best Toyota Replacement Parts, Performance Parts, OEM and Aftermarket Parts.
As many customers are satisfied with Toyota cars, Parts Train has been the top choice of millions of Toyota owners for many years. Its diverse line of excellent Toyota replacement car parts, auto body parts, Toyota interior parts and Toyota exterior parts, Toyota motor parts and more can be found at its online store.
Used Cars - Second Hand Cars - Tips For Buying
Don't buy a car in the rain, the bodywork always looks better when it's wet, plus, the chances are you will forget to check something by rushing to get out of the rain.
Stand at the front, or the back of the car, and look along the body line. You will be able to see if it has had any body damage as the light reflecting off the side of the car will show the dents or replaced panels.
Check around the window rubbers for over spray, a sure fire way to see if a car as been touched up.
Check the gaps between the panels to make sure they are even on both sides of the car. Bonnet to wing etc. This is a good indication as to whether the car has been in an accident and had panels replaced.
Take a fridge magnet with you and check the bodywork for filler. The magnet will stick to the metal, but will fall off if it meets body filler.
Have a look at the interior of the car, does the wear inside the car look in keeping with the mileage. If the car looks like its done 100,000 and the clock says 25,000. Then you know its been round the clock, or even worse clocked. Check the steering wheel, and accelerator pedal rubber for excessive wear, the clutch and brake pedal rubbers can be replaced, but the accelerator pedal is a lot harder to change, and will give a truer indication of mileage.
Check underneath the car for any oil or water leaks, also check the floor where the car has been standing for the same.
Check the tires for uneven wear, if the tires are worn more on one side than the other its an indication that the car may have been in an accident and the chassis is twisted. It could also be the tracking or wheel balancing. Either way its not a good sign.
Drive the car, (with the radio off) and check for any knocks or strange noises. Check the steering for vibration, or pulling to one side, its an indication again that the car may have been in an accident and the chassis is twisted. Make sure you drive the car in all gears to check the gearbox.
Try a 3 point turn in the car, that will check the reverse gear, and if you put the steering on full lock you will be able to check the wheel bearings and steering rack (your looking for clunking sounds or creaking).
When the engine is now hot check the oil, if it is milky there is water getting in somewhere, which could indicate a head gasket. (very Costly). The oil should be filled to between the 2 marks on the dipstick. If the oil is brand new beware, not many people will change the oil on a car the day before they sell it unless they are trying to hide something. Also check the water reservoir for signs of oil, not a good sign.
Last of all, check the paperwork. Make sure the registration document is in the sellers name. They may be a trader trying to pose as a private seller. Check the MOT to make sure its current. Check the service history to make sure it matches the vehicle being sold. Also you may want to check the engine and chassis number to see if it matches what is on the registration document. You will find that information on a small metal plate located under the bonnet. If the plate is missing be suspicious.
It's also a good idea to get the car HPI checked. This will tell you if the car has been stolen, been in an and accident, or is on finance. It costs around £40 but well worth it.
If you follow these rules when buying a used car you wont go far wrong. If you can't be bothered to go through the hassle, then buy your car from a trader, he or she will have already done all these checks to cover himself before he or she purchases the car. I would not buy a car without doing these checks first.
Stand at the front, or the back of the car, and look along the body line. You will be able to see if it has had any body damage as the light reflecting off the side of the car will show the dents or replaced panels.
Check around the window rubbers for over spray, a sure fire way to see if a car as been touched up.
Check the gaps between the panels to make sure they are even on both sides of the car. Bonnet to wing etc. This is a good indication as to whether the car has been in an accident and had panels replaced.
Take a fridge magnet with you and check the bodywork for filler. The magnet will stick to the metal, but will fall off if it meets body filler.
Have a look at the interior of the car, does the wear inside the car look in keeping with the mileage. If the car looks like its done 100,000 and the clock says 25,000. Then you know its been round the clock, or even worse clocked. Check the steering wheel, and accelerator pedal rubber for excessive wear, the clutch and brake pedal rubbers can be replaced, but the accelerator pedal is a lot harder to change, and will give a truer indication of mileage.
Check underneath the car for any oil or water leaks, also check the floor where the car has been standing for the same.
Check the tires for uneven wear, if the tires are worn more on one side than the other its an indication that the car may have been in an accident and the chassis is twisted. It could also be the tracking or wheel balancing. Either way its not a good sign.
Drive the car, (with the radio off) and check for any knocks or strange noises. Check the steering for vibration, or pulling to one side, its an indication again that the car may have been in an accident and the chassis is twisted. Make sure you drive the car in all gears to check the gearbox.
Try a 3 point turn in the car, that will check the reverse gear, and if you put the steering on full lock you will be able to check the wheel bearings and steering rack (your looking for clunking sounds or creaking).
When the engine is now hot check the oil, if it is milky there is water getting in somewhere, which could indicate a head gasket. (very Costly). The oil should be filled to between the 2 marks on the dipstick. If the oil is brand new beware, not many people will change the oil on a car the day before they sell it unless they are trying to hide something. Also check the water reservoir for signs of oil, not a good sign.
Last of all, check the paperwork. Make sure the registration document is in the sellers name. They may be a trader trying to pose as a private seller. Check the MOT to make sure its current. Check the service history to make sure it matches the vehicle being sold. Also you may want to check the engine and chassis number to see if it matches what is on the registration document. You will find that information on a small metal plate located under the bonnet. If the plate is missing be suspicious.
It's also a good idea to get the car HPI checked. This will tell you if the car has been stolen, been in an and accident, or is on finance. It costs around £40 but well worth it.
If you follow these rules when buying a used car you wont go far wrong. If you can't be bothered to go through the hassle, then buy your car from a trader, he or she will have already done all these checks to cover himself before he or she purchases the car. I would not buy a car without doing these checks first.
Big RC Cars Are Big on Fun and Excitement
There are some really big RC cars on the market these days and they add to the excitement of racing as their sheer size helps then race over rougher conditions than the smaller cars. With huge knobbly tires and long travel suspension these big RC cars can be raced through mud, over sand and through long grass. With the long suspension travel and big diameter soft tires they can also jump over big humps without doing any damage and can land from great heights and continue racing. Many of these big RC cars are over one and a half feet long and are wider enough to corner at high speeds without tipping over. To get these Big RC cars to perform they need powerful engines and that is exactly what they are powered with as the new generation of engines produce more power than ever. Some of these big cars are even powered by two engines for enormous power and most of the cars are four-wheel drive for added traction.
There are also a number of really aggressive RC trucks that look enormous compared to the vehicles that were offered just a few years ago. The big RC cars have a very wide track and the mechanicals are set low in the chassis for a lower center of gravity. This lower center of gravity helps with the stability of the vehicle particularly when cornering. The big soft tires give so much traction that the gears in the differentials and gearboxes have had to be upgraded to handle the power from the twin engines. Lighter gears can be prone to damage when there is too much traction and too much power applied on surfaces such as grass where the wheels won’t spin. Fortunately there are many parts that can be replaced relatively easily and at little expense.
There are also a number of really aggressive RC trucks that look enormous compared to the vehicles that were offered just a few years ago. The big RC cars have a very wide track and the mechanicals are set low in the chassis for a lower center of gravity. This lower center of gravity helps with the stability of the vehicle particularly when cornering. The big soft tires give so much traction that the gears in the differentials and gearboxes have had to be upgraded to handle the power from the twin engines. Lighter gears can be prone to damage when there is too much traction and too much power applied on surfaces such as grass where the wheels won’t spin. Fortunately there are many parts that can be replaced relatively easily and at little expense.
Reverse Gears: Functions and the Evolution of New Technology
Gears are an integral component of most mechanical devices that are in use today. Gears have wide ranging functions, but they are used for transmitting motion between two shafts. Moreover, they provide torque to a device that a fast spinning small motor cannot provide. Another important feature of gears is that they give direction to the process of rotation. This article provides information about just these types of gears, specifically reverse gears.
A pair of gears, one present on the counter shaft and the other on the output shaft are used to implement the process of ‘reverse’. As opposed to forward gears that are meshed together, there is some amount of space between the reverse gears. Another point of differentiation from forward gears is that reverse gears are joined to their shafts. There is no free rotation around the shaft. There might develop a scenario when a small gear that is known as the reverse idler is slid between the two gears. The function of this gear also called the idler gear is to mesh the two gears together. This enables it to change the direction of the rotation, but it does not hamper the gear ration in any way.
The method of working of reverse gears is not as complex as it seems. When the reverse gear is selected, the gear teeth of these gears are meshed. There is absolutely no aid from the mechanism that seeks to synchronize these gears. This is one of the primary reasons why the output shaft must now move, once a reverse is selected. That mean a car must be stopped when you want to select the reverse gear. Many automobiles have a mechanism wherein the input shaft also stops spinning when reverse gears are selected. This decreases the grinding that accompanies the selection of reverse when there is an inertial spinning of the input shaft.
Car companies do not necessarily uses the same reverse technologies across all makes. Advanced technologies make possible the use of sophisticated reverse gears in modern cars. Of course, these cars come with a hefty price tag. But, more often than not a mechanism is used which stop the transmission of the input shaft. If this is not done the vehicle produces a whining sound. This is why all car manufacturers use the idler that, as aforementioned, can be inserted between the two gears. This procedure reduces the accompanying noise to a great extent and in the service manual of many companies; you can find a mention of this system as a “noise reduction system”.
A new kind of reverse technology has entered the market in the recent times, called ‘spur reverse technology’. This technology has made a few improvements to the one that have been listed above. But, it has compromised on a few aspects like, robustness, engagements, and noise. But it has found acceptability because there is limited driving that takes place in reverse.
A pair of gears, one present on the counter shaft and the other on the output shaft are used to implement the process of ‘reverse’. As opposed to forward gears that are meshed together, there is some amount of space between the reverse gears. Another point of differentiation from forward gears is that reverse gears are joined to their shafts. There is no free rotation around the shaft. There might develop a scenario when a small gear that is known as the reverse idler is slid between the two gears. The function of this gear also called the idler gear is to mesh the two gears together. This enables it to change the direction of the rotation, but it does not hamper the gear ration in any way.
The method of working of reverse gears is not as complex as it seems. When the reverse gear is selected, the gear teeth of these gears are meshed. There is absolutely no aid from the mechanism that seeks to synchronize these gears. This is one of the primary reasons why the output shaft must now move, once a reverse is selected. That mean a car must be stopped when you want to select the reverse gear. Many automobiles have a mechanism wherein the input shaft also stops spinning when reverse gears are selected. This decreases the grinding that accompanies the selection of reverse when there is an inertial spinning of the input shaft.
Car companies do not necessarily uses the same reverse technologies across all makes. Advanced technologies make possible the use of sophisticated reverse gears in modern cars. Of course, these cars come with a hefty price tag. But, more often than not a mechanism is used which stop the transmission of the input shaft. If this is not done the vehicle produces a whining sound. This is why all car manufacturers use the idler that, as aforementioned, can be inserted between the two gears. This procedure reduces the accompanying noise to a great extent and in the service manual of many companies; you can find a mention of this system as a “noise reduction system”.
A new kind of reverse technology has entered the market in the recent times, called ‘spur reverse technology’. This technology has made a few improvements to the one that have been listed above. But, it has compromised on a few aspects like, robustness, engagements, and noise. But it has found acceptability because there is limited driving that takes place in reverse.
Gears Gear-Up Your Machines
Gears are one of the most basic transmission devices. If you are not a mechanical engineer, you will be amazed by the extent to which gears affect our daily life.
There are two basic functions that gears perform.
First, they make power travel from one part of a machine to another. For instance, when you are pedaling a bicycle, it is the arrangement of gears that causes the transmission of power from your leg movement to the rotation of the wheels. Likewise with most other forms of gear based machines.
Second, gears act as reducers. Thereby, they reduce the output speed but increase the torque. To understand this, once again consider the example of a bicycle. If you are climbing up a slope, you move to a smaller gear. This reduces the speed at which the cycle moves, but it increases the power generated by the rotation of the wheels. Hence, on the whole cycling-up the slope becomes easier. A similar example could be considered for a stick-shift car, whereby, you climb up steep slopes in a lower gear.
And to think that in their simplest form, gears are nothing but an interlinked pair of toothed wheels. But, gears can get more complicated. For instance, we could have a chain of gears when gear-one rotates gear-two, which rotates gear-three and so on. Likewise, we could have a situation where one of the toothed element is a cylinder, while the other is a disc. Also, again going back to the example of the cycle, we could have the two gears separated by some distance, but interlinked by a chain, or other transmitting device.
There are two basic functions that gears perform.
First, they make power travel from one part of a machine to another. For instance, when you are pedaling a bicycle, it is the arrangement of gears that causes the transmission of power from your leg movement to the rotation of the wheels. Likewise with most other forms of gear based machines.
Second, gears act as reducers. Thereby, they reduce the output speed but increase the torque. To understand this, once again consider the example of a bicycle. If you are climbing up a slope, you move to a smaller gear. This reduces the speed at which the cycle moves, but it increases the power generated by the rotation of the wheels. Hence, on the whole cycling-up the slope becomes easier. A similar example could be considered for a stick-shift car, whereby, you climb up steep slopes in a lower gear.
And to think that in their simplest form, gears are nothing but an interlinked pair of toothed wheels. But, gears can get more complicated. For instance, we could have a chain of gears when gear-one rotates gear-two, which rotates gear-three and so on. Likewise, we could have a situation where one of the toothed element is a cylinder, while the other is a disc. Also, again going back to the example of the cycle, we could have the two gears separated by some distance, but interlinked by a chain, or other transmitting device.
High Performance Car Transmissions
A transmission or gearbox is the system of gears that transmits mechanical power from the engine which ends at the wheels to produce higher torque/speeds.
The difference between Automatic Transmissions and Manual Gear boxes is that Automatic Transmissions change gear ratios automatically as the vehicle moves therefore not giving the driver control over when to shift gears, Where as the Manual Gearbox allows the driver to shift gears according to their needs whether it be high for high torque or high speeds.
Transmissions provide a major speed-power conversion known as gear reduction (in speed) to a higher torque by using gear sets. The cars transmission provides different speed-power ratios. Performance car transmissions must match the power output of the engine for the vehicle to perform at its peak and to reduce the risk of engine damage from over revving the engine.
All transmissions have different gear ratios and several gears to provide for high and low speed torque.
Low gears are used to give the car higher torque at low speeds and high gears increase the speed but have a lower torque therefore the more gears that the Transmission/Gearbox has the higher the speeds that can be gained. So by changing the gear ratios in the transmission/gearboxes you can maximize the power output and acceleration at any given speed. So you can now you can see the importance of the Transmission /Gearbox optimization has on high performance cars.
The difference between Automatic Transmissions and Manual Gear boxes is that Automatic Transmissions change gear ratios automatically as the vehicle moves therefore not giving the driver control over when to shift gears, Where as the Manual Gearbox allows the driver to shift gears according to their needs whether it be high for high torque or high speeds.
Transmissions provide a major speed-power conversion known as gear reduction (in speed) to a higher torque by using gear sets. The cars transmission provides different speed-power ratios. Performance car transmissions must match the power output of the engine for the vehicle to perform at its peak and to reduce the risk of engine damage from over revving the engine.
All transmissions have different gear ratios and several gears to provide for high and low speed torque.
Low gears are used to give the car higher torque at low speeds and high gears increase the speed but have a lower torque therefore the more gears that the Transmission/Gearbox has the higher the speeds that can be gained. So by changing the gear ratios in the transmission/gearboxes you can maximize the power output and acceleration at any given speed. So you can now you can see the importance of the Transmission /Gearbox optimization has on high performance cars.
Green Living
I recently took delivery of my new car, a Honda Civic Hybrid, and was pleasantly surprised to find that it drove like a 2ltr car but in reality only had a 1300 cc engine.
For the uninitiated a hybrid car has a small engine and an electric motor in series. The gearbox is a CVT (continuously variable transmission) so no automatic gear changes are perceptible. In normal motoring the car uses the small engine; when you need more power, the electric motor assists the engine and conversely when less power is needed the car charges the batteries, equally when braking the energy is directed to the batteries as well.
The one feature which was initially unsettling was that the engine stops when at a standstill with the foot brake applied. Releasing the foot brake starts the engine again.
The dashboard has an additional dial which indicates the state of charge of the batteries and an indication of assist (using the stored power from the batteries) or charge (putting power back into the batteries.
Questions
Do the batteries need recharging?
No, they are automatically charged when the car is used.
Do the batteries make the boot very small?
No, the 150 volt batteries sit behind the rear seat so the boot is a normal size.
What MPG is available?
The car is new so 50 MPG is what I am getting now, but I am assured that this will increase as the car loosens up, although the published top MPG of 65+ I think is unrealistic.
What are the other advantages?
Exempt from the London Congestion charge, £18 road tax and low CO2 emissions.
Is the car reliable?
Honda comes top in the car reliability stakes.
For the uninitiated a hybrid car has a small engine and an electric motor in series. The gearbox is a CVT (continuously variable transmission) so no automatic gear changes are perceptible. In normal motoring the car uses the small engine; when you need more power, the electric motor assists the engine and conversely when less power is needed the car charges the batteries, equally when braking the energy is directed to the batteries as well.
The one feature which was initially unsettling was that the engine stops when at a standstill with the foot brake applied. Releasing the foot brake starts the engine again.
The dashboard has an additional dial which indicates the state of charge of the batteries and an indication of assist (using the stored power from the batteries) or charge (putting power back into the batteries.
Questions
Do the batteries need recharging?
No, they are automatically charged when the car is used.
Do the batteries make the boot very small?
No, the 150 volt batteries sit behind the rear seat so the boot is a normal size.
What MPG is available?
The car is new so 50 MPG is what I am getting now, but I am assured that this will increase as the car loosens up, although the published top MPG of 65+ I think is unrealistic.
What are the other advantages?
Exempt from the London Congestion charge, £18 road tax and low CO2 emissions.
Is the car reliable?
Honda comes top in the car reliability stakes.
An Introduction to Hybrid Cars
As more and more people catch on to the wave of the automotive future - the hybrid car, more and more questions arise regarding these efficient, but somewhat mysterious vehicles. But just how do they work, are they reliable enough, and are they capable of being the car of the future?
So what is a Hybrid Car?
A hybrid car is any car that combines two or more sources of power, such as gasoline and a rechargeable battery. A hybrid-electric vehicle (HEV) combines the power of a gas engine with an electric motor. These dual engine systems can be configured for different purposes such as increasing the car’s power and improving fuel economy.
Components of a Hybrid Car
Components of an Hybrid car may include:
- Battery
- Electric motor
- Internal combustion engine (ICE)
- Generator
- Power split device
The Technological Advances
Some of the technological advances in the hybrid car industry include:
- Regenerative braking: This feature actually recycles energy when the cars brakes are applied. The electric motor is designed to exert resistance to the car’s drive train, which then causes its wheels to slow down. Energy from the wheels is then used to fuel the electric motor, which acts as a generator, converting the energy that would otherwise be wasted while braking into electricity that is stored in the battery until needed.
- Automatic start and shut-off: This feature automatically shuts off the engine when the car has come to a stop, then restarts it when the accelerator is touched. This eliminates the need to waste energy by idling the engine.
- Electric motor drive: The hybrid’s electric motor gives the car the added power it needs when accelerating, passing, or climbing hills. With this extra assistance, a smaller, more fuel efficient engine can be used.
Quick Information on How Hybrid Car Work
An internal combustion engine is “fueled” by a hybrid’s electric generator, which acts as the starter, and is used when first switching the car on. Once the ICE is heated up, it automatically shuts itself off with the electric motor taking over. Some hybrids will stay in an all electric mode until the car reaches a certain speed, usually about 15 mph. If there are no sudden accelerations, and the driver slowly makes a gradual increase in speed, these hybrids can still use all electricity for its power, saving gas, energy and a reducing harmful emissions.
A computer within the hybrid is responsible for determining how much power is needed from the ICE and how much should be used from the electric engine, depending on how fast the car is going. The computer continues to decide whether or not the electric motor should be used, or the internal combustion engine the entire time the car is running. Signals are sent to a gearbox known as the power split device, which uses a series of intricate gears that connect both the gas and electric engines/motors together.
The electric portion of the hybrid draws its power from a set of nickel hydride batteries. The computer also constantly monitors the amount of charge in the battery, keeping it at no less than 40 percent of its full capacity, and never more than 60 percent. The purpose of this is to keep the battery lasting as long as possible, which is usually a couple hundred thousand miles.
So what is a Hybrid Car?
A hybrid car is any car that combines two or more sources of power, such as gasoline and a rechargeable battery. A hybrid-electric vehicle (HEV) combines the power of a gas engine with an electric motor. These dual engine systems can be configured for different purposes such as increasing the car’s power and improving fuel economy.
Components of a Hybrid Car
Components of an Hybrid car may include:
- Battery
- Electric motor
- Internal combustion engine (ICE)
- Generator
- Power split device
The Technological Advances
Some of the technological advances in the hybrid car industry include:
- Regenerative braking: This feature actually recycles energy when the cars brakes are applied. The electric motor is designed to exert resistance to the car’s drive train, which then causes its wheels to slow down. Energy from the wheels is then used to fuel the electric motor, which acts as a generator, converting the energy that would otherwise be wasted while braking into electricity that is stored in the battery until needed.
- Automatic start and shut-off: This feature automatically shuts off the engine when the car has come to a stop, then restarts it when the accelerator is touched. This eliminates the need to waste energy by idling the engine.
- Electric motor drive: The hybrid’s electric motor gives the car the added power it needs when accelerating, passing, or climbing hills. With this extra assistance, a smaller, more fuel efficient engine can be used.
Quick Information on How Hybrid Car Work
An internal combustion engine is “fueled” by a hybrid’s electric generator, which acts as the starter, and is used when first switching the car on. Once the ICE is heated up, it automatically shuts itself off with the electric motor taking over. Some hybrids will stay in an all electric mode until the car reaches a certain speed, usually about 15 mph. If there are no sudden accelerations, and the driver slowly makes a gradual increase in speed, these hybrids can still use all electricity for its power, saving gas, energy and a reducing harmful emissions.
A computer within the hybrid is responsible for determining how much power is needed from the ICE and how much should be used from the electric engine, depending on how fast the car is going. The computer continues to decide whether or not the electric motor should be used, or the internal combustion engine the entire time the car is running. Signals are sent to a gearbox known as the power split device, which uses a series of intricate gears that connect both the gas and electric engines/motors together.
The electric portion of the hybrid draws its power from a set of nickel hydride batteries. The computer also constantly monitors the amount of charge in the battery, keeping it at no less than 40 percent of its full capacity, and never more than 60 percent. The purpose of this is to keep the battery lasting as long as possible, which is usually a couple hundred thousand miles.
Upgrade Your Airsoft Gun with Airsoft Parts
Planning a Make-over?
You can outfit your airsoft gun inside and out. Whether you want better performance or parts replacement, you can get the right airsoft parts. The convenience of shopping for airsoft parts online makes it also easier for you to compare prices, and avail of discounted offers.
Majority of airsoft parts are manufactured in China, Taiwan, and Japan. The airsoft parts cater to all makes and designs of airsoft firearms; so getting one for your airsoft model will be fast and trouble-free. You will only have to be sure of what you want for your airsoft gun.
Before giving your airsoft rifle or handgun a make-over, have a ready plan: when to upgrade, what to upgrade, and how much you are going to spend. When doing the upgrading yourself have all airsoft parts ready. If you are not sure about your competence, get a pro to help you, or show you how it is done.
What Are These Airsoft Parts?
There are airsoft parts for internal and external upgrades. For internal upgrades, there are gearboxes and parts, cylinder pistons, and piston heads, bushings, gears and gear sets, springs and guides, nozzles, hop up rubber sets, motor barrels, inner barrels and other internal parts. For externals you can choose metal parts, optics, silencers, flash hiders, and much more.
Viewing those airsoft parts online can give you a better idea about overhauling your airsoft gun. If you are keen on replacing parts of your Tokyo Marui AK47, start with the gearbox. Perhaps you are aware that the limitations of the velocity of Japanese made airsoft guns are legal in nature not a flaw in design.
The gearbox is large enough to accommodate a bigger 8.4 volt battery. With a speed of 285 fps, your gun’s magazine will be tough enough to hold 68 bbs. Since this gun can switch from semi to full automatic, you will now have a powerful gun after you upgrade the gearbox. In most cases, before you do any upgrading you must have the complete airosoft parts.
Do-It-Yourself
You will need a Systema/Areal1000 metal bushings, hop up bucking, Guarder 50% ball bearings, Guarder Shim and Shim Set. You will be working on springs so get a PDI 150% Spring if you want more speed and velocity. You will be using several screwdrivers, which you can buy from the local hardware.
Go over instructional manuals carefully, and be sure you remove the battery before any disassembling. It will be practical to have ready containers for the tiny screws and bolts.
Upgrade Your Look
If you have done your airsoft rifle a service with airsoft parts, how about getting the latest protective gear for yourself? The vest, SWAT helmet, goggles and sunglasses, arm and leg holsters, and combat boots will give you the protection and appropriate look in your next battle.
You should also update yourself on the local regulations on airsoft firearms, and ensure that you store your guns out of the reach of children.
You can outfit your airsoft gun inside and out. Whether you want better performance or parts replacement, you can get the right airsoft parts. The convenience of shopping for airsoft parts online makes it also easier for you to compare prices, and avail of discounted offers.
Majority of airsoft parts are manufactured in China, Taiwan, and Japan. The airsoft parts cater to all makes and designs of airsoft firearms; so getting one for your airsoft model will be fast and trouble-free. You will only have to be sure of what you want for your airsoft gun.
Before giving your airsoft rifle or handgun a make-over, have a ready plan: when to upgrade, what to upgrade, and how much you are going to spend. When doing the upgrading yourself have all airsoft parts ready. If you are not sure about your competence, get a pro to help you, or show you how it is done.
What Are These Airsoft Parts?
There are airsoft parts for internal and external upgrades. For internal upgrades, there are gearboxes and parts, cylinder pistons, and piston heads, bushings, gears and gear sets, springs and guides, nozzles, hop up rubber sets, motor barrels, inner barrels and other internal parts. For externals you can choose metal parts, optics, silencers, flash hiders, and much more.
Viewing those airsoft parts online can give you a better idea about overhauling your airsoft gun. If you are keen on replacing parts of your Tokyo Marui AK47, start with the gearbox. Perhaps you are aware that the limitations of the velocity of Japanese made airsoft guns are legal in nature not a flaw in design.
The gearbox is large enough to accommodate a bigger 8.4 volt battery. With a speed of 285 fps, your gun’s magazine will be tough enough to hold 68 bbs. Since this gun can switch from semi to full automatic, you will now have a powerful gun after you upgrade the gearbox. In most cases, before you do any upgrading you must have the complete airosoft parts.
Do-It-Yourself
You will need a Systema/Areal1000 metal bushings, hop up bucking, Guarder 50% ball bearings, Guarder Shim and Shim Set. You will be working on springs so get a PDI 150% Spring if you want more speed and velocity. You will be using several screwdrivers, which you can buy from the local hardware.
Go over instructional manuals carefully, and be sure you remove the battery before any disassembling. It will be practical to have ready containers for the tiny screws and bolts.
Upgrade Your Look
If you have done your airsoft rifle a service with airsoft parts, how about getting the latest protective gear for yourself? The vest, SWAT helmet, goggles and sunglasses, arm and leg holsters, and combat boots will give you the protection and appropriate look in your next battle.
You should also update yourself on the local regulations on airsoft firearms, and ensure that you store your guns out of the reach of children.
Gray Market Tractors, What You Should Know and Check Before You Purchase
Before you begin to actually look at tractors you should know exactly what you are looking for.
Consider the following questions when shopping for a tractor.
What size of tractor do you need?
What are you going to be using you tractor for?
How often will the tractor be used?
Is the tractor going to be used to produce income? Of course, money is often a consideration when shopping for a tractor. Consider talking to people that own tractors and get their opinions. Be an informed shopper and don't let anyone rush you. Below are some other things to consider before you begin shopping for a tractor.
Tractor Size
This is obviously the most commonly asked questions regarding a tractor purchase. The average compact tractor consumer owns a 1-5 acre piece of property and uses the small compact diesel mostly for mowing The other tractor consumers usually have between 10-30 acres and needs about a 30 horsepower to complete the necessary tasks.
What are you going to use the tractor for?, is of course, the most important question to answer. Is it just for mowing or will you be using a loader or backhoe on it? Will you be working on rocky or uneven ground?
Dollars & Sense
You should definitely shop around, however, don't forget that if you are comparing the prices of different makes and models of tractor it can sometimes be much like comparing apples to oranges. As with anything else, some makes and models are made better than others. A few more dollars upfront in price for a better quality of tractor makes more 'sense' than having to pay the cost of constant repairs and maintenance.
Different Makes and Models of Tractors
If at all possible, one of the best things you can do to make your life easier, is to purchase a tractor that is easy to get parts for. There are many foreign makes and models that are exact matches to domestic tractors. With that in mind, you can get a parts book for U.S. made tractor and purchase the corresponding part numbers that way. Some parts dealers don't like to sell parts for a gray market tractor. In fact, dealers of some brands of tractors are being told by a higher authority that they cannot willingly sell parts for gray market tractors.
Diesel Engines
Make sure you get a tractor with a diesel engine. Diesel engines have better performance and usually last longer than gas engines. Implements also work better on diesel engine tractors.
Horsepower
Approximately how many horsepower will you need? One horsepower (hp) is the amount of energy required to lift 550 pounds, one foot, in one second. In a tractor the energy is produced from torque and engine speed. A 100 hp tractor is one with a maximum of 100 horsepower available at the power-takeoff (PTO) outlet. PTO
Nearly all Japanese tractor manufacturers include the power take off (PTO) horsepower (hp) in their model numbers; however, they do not include the engine (fly) hp. The first two numbers of the model number is where you find the PTO hp. The PTO hp is important because it is telling you the equipment working power of the tractor. It tells you what horsepower that equipment requiring a PTO will get from the tractor. Click here for a more in depth explanation of PTO.
Cylinders
Consider getting a three or four cylinder tractor. Three and four cylinder tractors are generally newer tractors and run quieter and smoother than the two cylinder models. Transmissions
There are several different types of transmissions for tractors. If you are not knowledgeable about tractor transmissions, it would be a good idea if you familiarize yourself with the different types listed below, so that when you go out to shop for a tractor you will well informed. Manual transmissions on tractors were made to be shifted while the tractor is not in motion. This will cause a grinding noise due to the fact the two gears that are trying to mesh are rotating at different speeds. Manual shift transmissions are known for their durability, however, they are not considered to be very user friendly. The sliding gear and the collar shift are two of the more common transmissions.
Synchro Shift transmissions are basically collar shift transmissions (a type of manual transmission, see above). The difference is the added synchronizers, which makes it so that the gears don't grind if you are trying to shift while the tractor is in motion. Some synchro shift transmissions only have one pair of synchronized gears, while others have all speeds synchronized, including forward and reverse. The synchronization of forward and reverse is called the shuttle shift. This synchro shift is a dependable transmission, however, just like with automobiles, the more 'tricky' the tranny is, and the more chance there is of something going wrong or breaking.
A Power Shift transmission is an option well worth considering. Not those standard shift transmissions won't work just fine; however, often power shift is a nice little luxury, depending on what you are going to be using the tractor for. With a power shift transmission you can choose different speeds while the tractor is in motion, without needing to use the clutch pedal.
Hydrostatic transmissions operate in a closed loop, the flow of the pump is reversed, which in turn causes the tractor to reverse directions. The hydrostatic transmission is considered to be very dependable and is able to defend itself against 'operator difficulty'. Because this is transmission is controlled by a foot pedal, when you take your foot off of the pedal the tractor will stop, this is a nice safety feature. Hydrostatic is considered the best selection for such things as large mowing jobs because it allows for easy direction change and continual, unchanging speed.
Implement Adaptability
You will want a tractor with a Category 1, 3-point hitch and standard rotation PTO shafts. Most imported compact tractors are equipped with these items; however, there are a few that are not.
Implement Availability
Before you purchase a a tractor, make sure that good quality implements are available for it. It is a good idea to try to find a tractor with as many model-specific attachments as possible. These include things such as loaders and backhoes, which have custom-fitted mounts that are not interchangeable with other makes and models of tractor. You can often save money if you purchase the implements at the same time you purchase the tractor and some implements can be very expensive to add on at a later time.
Parts Manuals
Sometime parts manuals can be very hard to acquire. Make sure there is one available for the tractor you choose. Ask how much the manual is, sometimes the cost can be over $100.00 dollars.
Warranty
Find out what kind of a warranty comes with the tractor. Find out what it covers and for how long. Below is a checklist that you can print and take with you when you are out shopping for a tractor. Just check things off and take notes as you check over the prospective tractor.
Yes, it's a very long checklist, but well worth your time if you want to get a good quality tractor at a fair price.
Some things on the checklist may not pertain to the type of tractor you are looking for; however, we believe that most folks will find the majority of information here to be very helpful.
Your goal is to ensure that the tractor you purchase is all that the seller says it is and doesn't have any hidden problems. Make sure you know what you are looking for. Know what options you must have on the tractor and which ones you might be willing to compromise on or be able to add later.
Tractor Buyer's Checklist
Make_____________________________ Model _____________________ Year _________ Hours
On Meter________ Asking Price $____________
Seller's Name _____________________________ Phone ______________
Tractor Location _______________________________________________
Yes/No Notes Visual Exterior Inspection
Does the overall appearance of the tractor look as if it has been cared for?
Why is the tractor for sale?
Is the paint faded?
Is the sheet metal straight?
Are there a lot of 'dings' in the tractor?
Are there any decaying rubber or plastic components?
Are there any structural cracks? Look closely for hairline cracks.
Is there anything that looks like a 'makeshift' repair job?
Are the tires in good condition with good tread left on them?
Is there a calcium mixture added to the tires for better stability?
Is there still good tread left on the tires?
Is the seat in good condition?
Does it have a standard 3-point hitch?
Are there any puddles of fluid under the tractor?
Are there any oil spots on the ground around the wheels?
Engine Inspection
Is the engine warm?
Are there oil and/or fuel on the engine?
Can you see any seals leaking?
Is there oil around the rear axles, near the rear wheel?
Is there oil around the PTO seals?
Are there oil leaks around the output shaft seals gearboxes? (4WD
Is the engine oil at or near the full mark?
Is the front axle dipstick at or near the full mark? (4WD)
Does the oil look clean? Black is ok for diesel engines.
Are there creamy white droplets near the top of the dipstick?
Are all the filters U.S. made?
Is the air filter intact?
Does the air filter have any tears or holes in it?
Is the fuel filter clean?
Is the fan belt tight and in good shape?
Does the air inlet tube have any cracks or holes in it?
Is the water in the radiator dark green? This is a good thing.
Does the radiator water have a milky looking scum to it?
Is there flaking or discolored paint around the radiator cap?
Is there moisture along the bottom of the radiator?
Is there any slop in the steering linkages?
Did you closely look over the tractor a second time to make sure you didn't miss anything?
Running Engine Inspection
Does the oil pressure register when you just turn the key?
Start the tractor. Does it start easily?
Does the oil pressure light go off or the oil gauge go up to about 30-80 psi?
Do all of the other lights go off?
Is the voltage meter (if it has one) charging a full 13.5-14.5 volts
Did you rock the steering wheel from left to right? Do this with the engine running if the
tractor has power steering.
Does the PTO spin in all gears?
Does the 3-point hitch work properly?
Does the tractor continue to smoke after it warms up?
Driving The Tractor (This is the fun part)
Does the tractor work through all of the gears?
Does the power shift feel 'weak' when shifting?
Is there any slippage when you quickly accelerate into high gear?
Does the 4WD engage properly?
Does the clutch slip?
Do the brakes work well?
Did you check the brakes by pushing one pedal at a time in low gear?
Does the tractor make any clunking noises from inside the engine?
Does the charging system work properly?
Do the wheels wobble at all?
Hydraulics
Are the control levers in good shape and not flopping around?
Are the pivot pins badly worn?
Does any oil seep out of the extended spools (control valves)?
Are the hydraulic couplers capped?
Does the hydraulics work correctly?
Post Driving Inspection
Did the temp gauge ever get above the recommended temperature?
Did the temp light ever come on while you were driving it?
Did the tractor overheat?
Did the tractor run well even after it got hot?
Do you see any new leaks from the radiator?
Do you see any new oil and or fluid leaks?
Did you see excess smoke when you removed the oil cap?
Did you closely look over the tractor a third time to make sure you didn't miss anything?
I Hope this has been a lot of information that you where looking for and you will use this information to your advantage and be safe with it.
Consider the following questions when shopping for a tractor.
What size of tractor do you need?
What are you going to be using you tractor for?
How often will the tractor be used?
Is the tractor going to be used to produce income? Of course, money is often a consideration when shopping for a tractor. Consider talking to people that own tractors and get their opinions. Be an informed shopper and don't let anyone rush you. Below are some other things to consider before you begin shopping for a tractor.
Tractor Size
This is obviously the most commonly asked questions regarding a tractor purchase. The average compact tractor consumer owns a 1-5 acre piece of property and uses the small compact diesel mostly for mowing The other tractor consumers usually have between 10-30 acres and needs about a 30 horsepower to complete the necessary tasks.
What are you going to use the tractor for?, is of course, the most important question to answer. Is it just for mowing or will you be using a loader or backhoe on it? Will you be working on rocky or uneven ground?
Dollars & Sense
You should definitely shop around, however, don't forget that if you are comparing the prices of different makes and models of tractor it can sometimes be much like comparing apples to oranges. As with anything else, some makes and models are made better than others. A few more dollars upfront in price for a better quality of tractor makes more 'sense' than having to pay the cost of constant repairs and maintenance.
Different Makes and Models of Tractors
If at all possible, one of the best things you can do to make your life easier, is to purchase a tractor that is easy to get parts for. There are many foreign makes and models that are exact matches to domestic tractors. With that in mind, you can get a parts book for U.S. made tractor and purchase the corresponding part numbers that way. Some parts dealers don't like to sell parts for a gray market tractor. In fact, dealers of some brands of tractors are being told by a higher authority that they cannot willingly sell parts for gray market tractors.
Diesel Engines
Make sure you get a tractor with a diesel engine. Diesel engines have better performance and usually last longer than gas engines. Implements also work better on diesel engine tractors.
Horsepower
Approximately how many horsepower will you need? One horsepower (hp) is the amount of energy required to lift 550 pounds, one foot, in one second. In a tractor the energy is produced from torque and engine speed. A 100 hp tractor is one with a maximum of 100 horsepower available at the power-takeoff (PTO) outlet. PTO
Nearly all Japanese tractor manufacturers include the power take off (PTO) horsepower (hp) in their model numbers; however, they do not include the engine (fly) hp. The first two numbers of the model number is where you find the PTO hp. The PTO hp is important because it is telling you the equipment working power of the tractor. It tells you what horsepower that equipment requiring a PTO will get from the tractor. Click here for a more in depth explanation of PTO.
Cylinders
Consider getting a three or four cylinder tractor. Three and four cylinder tractors are generally newer tractors and run quieter and smoother than the two cylinder models. Transmissions
There are several different types of transmissions for tractors. If you are not knowledgeable about tractor transmissions, it would be a good idea if you familiarize yourself with the different types listed below, so that when you go out to shop for a tractor you will well informed. Manual transmissions on tractors were made to be shifted while the tractor is not in motion. This will cause a grinding noise due to the fact the two gears that are trying to mesh are rotating at different speeds. Manual shift transmissions are known for their durability, however, they are not considered to be very user friendly. The sliding gear and the collar shift are two of the more common transmissions.
Synchro Shift transmissions are basically collar shift transmissions (a type of manual transmission, see above). The difference is the added synchronizers, which makes it so that the gears don't grind if you are trying to shift while the tractor is in motion. Some synchro shift transmissions only have one pair of synchronized gears, while others have all speeds synchronized, including forward and reverse. The synchronization of forward and reverse is called the shuttle shift. This synchro shift is a dependable transmission, however, just like with automobiles, the more 'tricky' the tranny is, and the more chance there is of something going wrong or breaking.
A Power Shift transmission is an option well worth considering. Not those standard shift transmissions won't work just fine; however, often power shift is a nice little luxury, depending on what you are going to be using the tractor for. With a power shift transmission you can choose different speeds while the tractor is in motion, without needing to use the clutch pedal.
Hydrostatic transmissions operate in a closed loop, the flow of the pump is reversed, which in turn causes the tractor to reverse directions. The hydrostatic transmission is considered to be very dependable and is able to defend itself against 'operator difficulty'. Because this is transmission is controlled by a foot pedal, when you take your foot off of the pedal the tractor will stop, this is a nice safety feature. Hydrostatic is considered the best selection for such things as large mowing jobs because it allows for easy direction change and continual, unchanging speed.
Implement Adaptability
You will want a tractor with a Category 1, 3-point hitch and standard rotation PTO shafts. Most imported compact tractors are equipped with these items; however, there are a few that are not.
Implement Availability
Before you purchase a a tractor, make sure that good quality implements are available for it. It is a good idea to try to find a tractor with as many model-specific attachments as possible. These include things such as loaders and backhoes, which have custom-fitted mounts that are not interchangeable with other makes and models of tractor. You can often save money if you purchase the implements at the same time you purchase the tractor and some implements can be very expensive to add on at a later time.
Parts Manuals
Sometime parts manuals can be very hard to acquire. Make sure there is one available for the tractor you choose. Ask how much the manual is, sometimes the cost can be over $100.00 dollars.
Warranty
Find out what kind of a warranty comes with the tractor. Find out what it covers and for how long. Below is a checklist that you can print and take with you when you are out shopping for a tractor. Just check things off and take notes as you check over the prospective tractor.
Yes, it's a very long checklist, but well worth your time if you want to get a good quality tractor at a fair price.
Some things on the checklist may not pertain to the type of tractor you are looking for; however, we believe that most folks will find the majority of information here to be very helpful.
Your goal is to ensure that the tractor you purchase is all that the seller says it is and doesn't have any hidden problems. Make sure you know what you are looking for. Know what options you must have on the tractor and which ones you might be willing to compromise on or be able to add later.
Tractor Buyer's Checklist
Make_____________________________ Model _____________________ Year _________ Hours
On Meter________ Asking Price $____________
Seller's Name _____________________________ Phone ______________
Tractor Location _______________________________________________
Yes/No Notes Visual Exterior Inspection
Does the overall appearance of the tractor look as if it has been cared for?
Why is the tractor for sale?
Is the paint faded?
Is the sheet metal straight?
Are there a lot of 'dings' in the tractor?
Are there any decaying rubber or plastic components?
Are there any structural cracks? Look closely for hairline cracks.
Is there anything that looks like a 'makeshift' repair job?
Are the tires in good condition with good tread left on them?
Is there a calcium mixture added to the tires for better stability?
Is there still good tread left on the tires?
Is the seat in good condition?
Does it have a standard 3-point hitch?
Are there any puddles of fluid under the tractor?
Are there any oil spots on the ground around the wheels?
Engine Inspection
Is the engine warm?
Are there oil and/or fuel on the engine?
Can you see any seals leaking?
Is there oil around the rear axles, near the rear wheel?
Is there oil around the PTO seals?
Are there oil leaks around the output shaft seals gearboxes? (4WD
Is the engine oil at or near the full mark?
Is the front axle dipstick at or near the full mark? (4WD)
Does the oil look clean? Black is ok for diesel engines.
Are there creamy white droplets near the top of the dipstick?
Are all the filters U.S. made?
Is the air filter intact?
Does the air filter have any tears or holes in it?
Is the fuel filter clean?
Is the fan belt tight and in good shape?
Does the air inlet tube have any cracks or holes in it?
Is the water in the radiator dark green? This is a good thing.
Does the radiator water have a milky looking scum to it?
Is there flaking or discolored paint around the radiator cap?
Is there moisture along the bottom of the radiator?
Is there any slop in the steering linkages?
Did you closely look over the tractor a second time to make sure you didn't miss anything?
Running Engine Inspection
Does the oil pressure register when you just turn the key?
Start the tractor. Does it start easily?
Does the oil pressure light go off or the oil gauge go up to about 30-80 psi?
Do all of the other lights go off?
Is the voltage meter (if it has one) charging a full 13.5-14.5 volts
Did you rock the steering wheel from left to right? Do this with the engine running if the
tractor has power steering.
Does the PTO spin in all gears?
Does the 3-point hitch work properly?
Does the tractor continue to smoke after it warms up?
Driving The Tractor (This is the fun part)
Does the tractor work through all of the gears?
Does the power shift feel 'weak' when shifting?
Is there any slippage when you quickly accelerate into high gear?
Does the 4WD engage properly?
Does the clutch slip?
Do the brakes work well?
Did you check the brakes by pushing one pedal at a time in low gear?
Does the tractor make any clunking noises from inside the engine?
Does the charging system work properly?
Do the wheels wobble at all?
Hydraulics
Are the control levers in good shape and not flopping around?
Are the pivot pins badly worn?
Does any oil seep out of the extended spools (control valves)?
Are the hydraulic couplers capped?
Does the hydraulics work correctly?
Post Driving Inspection
Did the temp gauge ever get above the recommended temperature?
Did the temp light ever come on while you were driving it?
Did the tractor overheat?
Did the tractor run well even after it got hot?
Do you see any new leaks from the radiator?
Do you see any new oil and or fluid leaks?
Did you see excess smoke when you removed the oil cap?
Did you closely look over the tractor a third time to make sure you didn't miss anything?
I Hope this has been a lot of information that you where looking for and you will use this information to your advantage and be safe with it.
Used Cars - Second Hand Cars - Tips For Buying
Don't buy a car in the rain, the bodywork always looks better when it's wet, plus, the chances are you will forget to check something by rushing to get out of the rain.
Stand at the front, or the back of the car, and look along the body line. You will be able to see if it has had any body damage as the light reflecting off the side of the car will show the dents or replaced panels.
Check around the window rubbers for over spray, a sure fire way to see if a car as been touched up.
Check the gaps between the panels to make sure they are even on both sides of the car. Bonnet to wing etc. This is a good indication as to whether the car has been in an accident and had panels replaced.
Take a fridge magnet with you and check the bodywork for filler. The magnet will stick to the metal, but will fall off if it meets body filler.
Have a look at the interior of the car, does the wear inside the car look in keeping with the mileage. If the car looks like its done 100,000 and the clock says 25,000. Then you know its been round the clock, or even worse clocked. Check the steering wheel, and accelerator pedal rubber for excessive wear, the clutch and brake pedal rubbers can be replaced, but the accelerator pedal is a lot harder to change, and will give a truer indication of mileage.
Check underneath the car for any oil or water leaks, also check the floor where the car has been standing for the same.
Check the tires for uneven wear, if the tires are worn more on one side than the other its an indication that the car may have been in an accident and the chassis is twisted. It could also be the tracking or wheel balancing. Either way its not a good sign.
Drive the car, (with the radio off) and check for any knocks or strange noises. Check the steering for vibration, or pulling to one side, its an indication again that the car may have been in an accident and the chassis is twisted. Make sure you drive the car in all gears to check the gearbox.
Try a 3 point turn in the car, that will check the reverse gear, and if you put the steering on full lock you will be able to check the wheel bearings and steering rack (your looking for clunking sounds or creaking).
When the engine is now hot check the oil, if it is milky there is water getting in somewhere, which could indicate a head gasket. (very Costly). The oil should be filled to between the 2 marks on the dipstick. If the oil is brand new beware, not many people will change the oil on a car the day before they sell it unless they are trying to hide something. Also check the water reservoir for signs of oil, not a good sign.
Last of all, check the paperwork. Make sure the registration document is in the sellers name. They may be a trader trying to pose as a private seller. Check the MOT to make sure its current. Check the service history to make sure it matches the vehicle being sold. Also you may want to check the engine and chassis number to see if it matches what is on the registration document. You will find that information on a small metal plate located under the bonnet. If the plate is missing be suspicious.
It's also a good idea to get the car HPI checked. This will tell you if the car has been stolen, been in an and accident, or is on finance. It costs around £40 but well worth it.
Stand at the front, or the back of the car, and look along the body line. You will be able to see if it has had any body damage as the light reflecting off the side of the car will show the dents or replaced panels.
Check around the window rubbers for over spray, a sure fire way to see if a car as been touched up.
Check the gaps between the panels to make sure they are even on both sides of the car. Bonnet to wing etc. This is a good indication as to whether the car has been in an accident and had panels replaced.
Take a fridge magnet with you and check the bodywork for filler. The magnet will stick to the metal, but will fall off if it meets body filler.
Have a look at the interior of the car, does the wear inside the car look in keeping with the mileage. If the car looks like its done 100,000 and the clock says 25,000. Then you know its been round the clock, or even worse clocked. Check the steering wheel, and accelerator pedal rubber for excessive wear, the clutch and brake pedal rubbers can be replaced, but the accelerator pedal is a lot harder to change, and will give a truer indication of mileage.
Check underneath the car for any oil or water leaks, also check the floor where the car has been standing for the same.
Check the tires for uneven wear, if the tires are worn more on one side than the other its an indication that the car may have been in an accident and the chassis is twisted. It could also be the tracking or wheel balancing. Either way its not a good sign.
Drive the car, (with the radio off) and check for any knocks or strange noises. Check the steering for vibration, or pulling to one side, its an indication again that the car may have been in an accident and the chassis is twisted. Make sure you drive the car in all gears to check the gearbox.
Try a 3 point turn in the car, that will check the reverse gear, and if you put the steering on full lock you will be able to check the wheel bearings and steering rack (your looking for clunking sounds or creaking).
When the engine is now hot check the oil, if it is milky there is water getting in somewhere, which could indicate a head gasket. (very Costly). The oil should be filled to between the 2 marks on the dipstick. If the oil is brand new beware, not many people will change the oil on a car the day before they sell it unless they are trying to hide something. Also check the water reservoir for signs of oil, not a good sign.
Last of all, check the paperwork. Make sure the registration document is in the sellers name. They may be a trader trying to pose as a private seller. Check the MOT to make sure its current. Check the service history to make sure it matches the vehicle being sold. Also you may want to check the engine and chassis number to see if it matches what is on the registration document. You will find that information on a small metal plate located under the bonnet. If the plate is missing be suspicious.
It's also a good idea to get the car HPI checked. This will tell you if the car has been stolen, been in an and accident, or is on finance. It costs around £40 but well worth it.
BOC To Supply Gases and Technical Support To Hawk Corporation
BOC (NYSE:BOX) and Hawk Corporation (NYSE:HWK) have signed a multi-year contract for the supply of gases, equipment, technical support and consulting services at eight of Hawk's 16 world wide facilities.
Hawk manufactures specialized components used in a variety of end markets including industrial, commercial, and aerospace applications.
Under the agreement, which has an estimated total lifetime value of more than US $3 million, BOC will supply Hawk with liquid hydrogen, liquid nitrogen, three nitrogen on-site production units, cylinder gases and technical solutions and consultative services to Hawk's Precision Components and Wellman Products divisions.
Bob Conrad, vice president, purchasing, Hawk, said, "BOC has the technical capability and global reach that we are looking for in a supply partner. This agreement will enable us to consolidate our supplier base, reduce our gases spend and raise our technical expertise."
Scott Kallman, vice president and general manager for BOC's Eastern region, said, "We are looking forward to working with Hawk in the future. Plans are already under way to implement our patented sinter hardening technology, and we have begun discussions on the possibility of conducting joint research in this and other powdered metal areas."
Hawk Corporation is a leading worldwide supplier of highly engineered products. Its friction products group is a leading supplier of friction materials for brakes, clutches and transmissions used in airplanes, trucks, construction equipment, farm equipment and recreational vehicles. Through its precision components group, the company is a leading supplier of powder metal and metal injection molded components for industrial applications, including pump, motor and transmission elements, gears, pistons and anti-lock sensor rings. The Company's performance automotive group manufactures clutches and gearboxes for motorsport applications and performance automotive markets. The Company's motor group designs and manufactures die-cast aluminum rotors for fractional and subfractional electric motors used in appliances, business equipment and HVAC systems. Headquartered in Cleveland, Ohio, Hawk has approximately 1,680 employees and 16 manufacturing sites in five countries.
Hawk manufactures specialized components used in a variety of end markets including industrial, commercial, and aerospace applications.
Under the agreement, which has an estimated total lifetime value of more than US $3 million, BOC will supply Hawk with liquid hydrogen, liquid nitrogen, three nitrogen on-site production units, cylinder gases and technical solutions and consultative services to Hawk's Precision Components and Wellman Products divisions.
Bob Conrad, vice president, purchasing, Hawk, said, "BOC has the technical capability and global reach that we are looking for in a supply partner. This agreement will enable us to consolidate our supplier base, reduce our gases spend and raise our technical expertise."
Scott Kallman, vice president and general manager for BOC's Eastern region, said, "We are looking forward to working with Hawk in the future. Plans are already under way to implement our patented sinter hardening technology, and we have begun discussions on the possibility of conducting joint research in this and other powdered metal areas."
Hawk Corporation is a leading worldwide supplier of highly engineered products. Its friction products group is a leading supplier of friction materials for brakes, clutches and transmissions used in airplanes, trucks, construction equipment, farm equipment and recreational vehicles. Through its precision components group, the company is a leading supplier of powder metal and metal injection molded components for industrial applications, including pump, motor and transmission elements, gears, pistons and anti-lock sensor rings. The Company's performance automotive group manufactures clutches and gearboxes for motorsport applications and performance automotive markets. The Company's motor group designs and manufactures die-cast aluminum rotors for fractional and subfractional electric motors used in appliances, business equipment and HVAC systems. Headquartered in Cleveland, Ohio, Hawk has approximately 1,680 employees and 16 manufacturing sites in five countries.
ChevronTexaco Global Lubricants Introduces New Turbine Oil For Gas, Steam and Combined Cycle Turbines
ChevronTexaco Global Lubricants, a leading provider of industrial lubricants and reliability solutions, today introduced a new turbine oil formulated to properly lubricate and protect against the harsh conditions found in turbines and gearboxes. The new product, which will be marketed as both Chevron GST 2300 and Texaco Regal Premium EP, is a premium performance turbine lubricant designed for gas, steam and combined cycle turbines, with or without loaded gearboxes. The product's performance characteristics allow it to maintain consistent viscosity, effective sludge control and eliminate the need for separate turbine and gearbox oils.
"In field trials, turbines running our new oil ran twice as long as those using a conventional lubricant," said Katherine Johnson, Industrial Specialist, ChevronTexaco Global Lubricants. "The product exceeds all critical OEM specifications for gas, steam, and highly-loaded gear turbines. It also has an RBOT value of 2300 minutes. No other non-synthetic turbine oil available today can make that claim. When you combine our new turbine oil with ChevronTexaco Global Lubricant's line of industrial heat transfer fluids, coolants and solutions, you create a complete offering for the power generation market that few, if any, can match."
Chevron GST 2300 and Texaco Regal Premium EP Benefits of Chevron GST 2300 and Texaco Regal Premium ED include the excellent water separability characteristics, which allow the oil to maintain a high film strength coating on critical wear points of bearings and gear reducers and assure rapid removal of water contamination. The corrosion inhibition feature protects turbine shafts, gears and lubrication system parts from corrosion and rusting and the foam inhibition element prevents sump overflow.
Additional product benefits include:
-- Superior oxidation stability for long service at elevated
temperatures
-- Protection from sludge and varnish formation
-- Simplified inventory: One lubricant for gearboxes and turbines
-- High viscosity index assuring minimum viscosity change with
temperature variations
-- Quick air release minimizing the possibility of pump
cavitation in systems with high circulation rates and small
reservoirs
-- Formulated with ISOSYN base stocks
The new turbine oil, available in ISO 32 and 46, can be obtained through ChevronTexaco marketers in North America by May 2004.
Chevron GST 2300 and Texaco Regal Premium EP ISO 32 .
Chevron GST 2300 and Texaco Regal Premium EP are not recommended for aeroderivative gas turbines, for this application ChevronTexaco Global Lubricants recommends Chevron Synthetic Turbine Oil SGT and Texaco Regal SGT 22.
About ChevronTexaco Global Lubricants
ChevronTexaco Global Lubricants (CTGL) is a leader in providing lubrication products and solutions to retail consumers, and commercial and industrial customers. Headquartered in San Ramon, Calif., CTGL is ranked among the top three global marketers of lubricants, and together with its many affiliates worldwide, is active in 186 countries through 4,000 employees. Its worldwide presence enables the company to be a local provider of superior service with global resources. CTGL is a division of a wholly owned subsidiary of ChevronTexaco Corporation (NYSE:CVX).
CTGL markets a full line of lubrication and coolant products under the Chevron, Texaco and Caltex brand names. Select brands include Superla(R), Havoline(R), Delo(R), Ursa(R), Revtex(R) and Texaco Xpress Lube(R). The company has patented technology in advanced lubricants products and new generation base oil technology, as well as in more diverse areas such as coolants and crop protection.
"In field trials, turbines running our new oil ran twice as long as those using a conventional lubricant," said Katherine Johnson, Industrial Specialist, ChevronTexaco Global Lubricants. "The product exceeds all critical OEM specifications for gas, steam, and highly-loaded gear turbines. It also has an RBOT value of 2300 minutes. No other non-synthetic turbine oil available today can make that claim. When you combine our new turbine oil with ChevronTexaco Global Lubricant's line of industrial heat transfer fluids, coolants and solutions, you create a complete offering for the power generation market that few, if any, can match."
Chevron GST 2300 and Texaco Regal Premium EP Benefits of Chevron GST 2300 and Texaco Regal Premium ED include the excellent water separability characteristics, which allow the oil to maintain a high film strength coating on critical wear points of bearings and gear reducers and assure rapid removal of water contamination. The corrosion inhibition feature protects turbine shafts, gears and lubrication system parts from corrosion and rusting and the foam inhibition element prevents sump overflow.
Additional product benefits include:
-- Superior oxidation stability for long service at elevated
temperatures
-- Protection from sludge and varnish formation
-- Simplified inventory: One lubricant for gearboxes and turbines
-- High viscosity index assuring minimum viscosity change with
temperature variations
-- Quick air release minimizing the possibility of pump
cavitation in systems with high circulation rates and small
reservoirs
-- Formulated with ISOSYN base stocks
The new turbine oil, available in ISO 32 and 46, can be obtained through ChevronTexaco marketers in North America by May 2004.
Chevron GST 2300 and Texaco Regal Premium EP ISO 32 .
Chevron GST 2300 and Texaco Regal Premium EP are not recommended for aeroderivative gas turbines, for this application ChevronTexaco Global Lubricants recommends Chevron Synthetic Turbine Oil SGT and Texaco Regal SGT 22.
About ChevronTexaco Global Lubricants
ChevronTexaco Global Lubricants (CTGL) is a leader in providing lubrication products and solutions to retail consumers, and commercial and industrial customers. Headquartered in San Ramon, Calif., CTGL is ranked among the top three global marketers of lubricants, and together with its many affiliates worldwide, is active in 186 countries through 4,000 employees. Its worldwide presence enables the company to be a local provider of superior service with global resources. CTGL is a division of a wholly owned subsidiary of ChevronTexaco Corporation (NYSE:CVX).
CTGL markets a full line of lubrication and coolant products under the Chevron, Texaco and Caltex brand names. Select brands include Superla(R), Havoline(R), Delo(R), Ursa(R), Revtex(R) and Texaco Xpress Lube(R). The company has patented technology in advanced lubricants products and new generation base oil technology, as well as in more diverse areas such as coolants and crop protection.
New utility vehicle from Kubota - utility equipment
Kubota Tractor Corp., Torrance, Calif., has announced the development of its first utility vehicle, the RTV900. Designed for general purpose, worksite, turf and recreational applications, the new unity vehicle is available in four configurations and incorporates the same technology used on the company's tractors, which have been sold in the U.S. for more than 30 years.
Kubota entered the utility vehicle market based on the growing trends of utility vehicles and the resources it already had to produce the vehicles, said James Burnside, product manager at Kubota. "We are going to grow this business. This is going to be big growth for Kubota this year."
After three years in development, Kubota began production on the vehicles in Gainesville, Ga. Full production was slated to begin in January.
While the company may have aimed for commonality between its new utility vehicle and its tractors in many areas, Burnside said the Kubota D902 diesel engine was designed specifically for the RTV900 utility vehicle. The three-cylinder, OHV, liquid-cooled engine has an 898 cc displacement on a bore and stroke of 2.83 in. x 2.90 in. and is rated 21.6 hp. The engine features a half float valve cover with a rubber ring gasket to seal and isolate vibration and reduce noise throughout the crankcase, the company said. Engine cooling is provided by a Denso radiator.
Kubota entered the utility vehicle market based on the growing trends of utility vehicles and the resources it already had to produce the vehicles, said James Burnside, product manager at Kubota. "We are going to grow this business. This is going to be big growth for Kubota this year."
After three years in development, Kubota began production on the vehicles in Gainesville, Ga. Full production was slated to begin in January.
While the company may have aimed for commonality between its new utility vehicle and its tractors in many areas, Burnside said the Kubota D902 diesel engine was designed specifically for the RTV900 utility vehicle. The three-cylinder, OHV, liquid-cooled engine has an 898 cc displacement on a bore and stroke of 2.83 in. x 2.90 in. and is rated 21.6 hp. The engine features a half float valve cover with a rubber ring gasket to seal and isolate vibration and reduce noise throughout the crankcase, the company said. Engine cooling is provided by a Denso radiator.
American Gear Manufacturers Association
The American Gear Manufacturers Association (AGMA) will sponsor an exhibit pavilion for its members at the 2008 IFPE--International Exposition for Power Transmission. AGMA will also promote the show as an IFPE 2008 supporting organization. IFPE 2008 will be held March 11-15, 2008, at the Las Vegas Convention Center in Las Vegas, Nev., and will be North America's largest exposition and technical conference for hydraulic, pneumatic, electrical and mechanical power transmission components, systems and controls.
Steep incline pump drive highlights expanded Funk programs - Mechanical Powertrain Component Supplement - Funk Manufacturing
The launch of a new hydraulic pump drive for steep incline applications highlights an expanded marketing program for Funk Mfg. Funk, Coffeyville, Kan., manufactures a variety of powertrain components, including transmissions, gearboxes and hydraulic pump drives, and is responsible for the marketing of axles manufactured by the Power Systems Group of Deere & Co., Funk's parent company. Funk also signed a North American sales agreement with England's International Transmissions Ltd. (see August 1998, Diesel Progress).
The new pump drive for steep incline use is part of Funk's 56000 series, and is similar in design to the existing five pump drives in that range. The new drive carries a rating to 950 hp (2000 lb.ft. at 2500 rpm) and can drive up to five hydraulic pumps. Target markets include trenchers, drill rigs and trash compactors.
The new steep incline configuration includes pressure lubrication, as well as a lowered sump case that is designed to eliminate gear contact with the oil in a horizontal position and reduces contact with the oil in side tilt applications up to 30 [degrees].
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Continuous operation in extreme side tilt applications in normal gearbox configurations can immerse one or more gears totally in oil, causing heating and gear damage because of the churning of the oil, Funk said. The new pump drive design includes a lube pump that supplies oil to all gear meshes, splines and bearings at all times, through internal lines drilled into the pump drive casting. Thus there are no external lines to leak or break, Funk said.
A pressure switch is also part of the new configuration, and can be wired to a panel light to warn the operator of low lube oil pressure in the drive. Further, the new hydraulic pump drive also includes high-contact ratio spur gears for quieter operation and ease of service and cylindrical roller bearings are also used, eliminating the need to shim the beatings.
The new pump drive configuration is also the first of what is expected to be an expanded emphasis on pump drives for Funk. According to Jim Huffman, sales manager, part of that program is increased emphasis on distributor pump drive sales and packaging. This is being done, said Huffman, as Funk distributors are doing more and more work with smaller equipment manufacturers.
The Funk distributors, totaling 22 worldwide, keep unsealed pump drives in stock, as well as gear ratio sets, power take-offs, a range of inputs, clutches, pump adapters and plates that allow them to essentially "build" a pump drive for a specific customer application. There are also 27 service dealers worldwide that support Funk's OEM direct programs.
Some distributors are packaging the Funk pump drives with Deere engines as a complete hydraulic power unit, while others are packaging hydraulic pumps with the pump drives, giving the equipment manufacturer a full hydraulic drive package.
As detailed in August, Funk is now the exclusive sales agent of International Transmissions Ltd., for the Americas. This adds a complementary range of transmissions and axles to Funk's axle and transmission range.
The new pump drive for steep incline use is part of Funk's 56000 series, and is similar in design to the existing five pump drives in that range. The new drive carries a rating to 950 hp (2000 lb.ft. at 2500 rpm) and can drive up to five hydraulic pumps. Target markets include trenchers, drill rigs and trash compactors.
The new steep incline configuration includes pressure lubrication, as well as a lowered sump case that is designed to eliminate gear contact with the oil in a horizontal position and reduces contact with the oil in side tilt applications up to 30 [degrees].
Advertisement
Continuous operation in extreme side tilt applications in normal gearbox configurations can immerse one or more gears totally in oil, causing heating and gear damage because of the churning of the oil, Funk said. The new pump drive design includes a lube pump that supplies oil to all gear meshes, splines and bearings at all times, through internal lines drilled into the pump drive casting. Thus there are no external lines to leak or break, Funk said.
A pressure switch is also part of the new configuration, and can be wired to a panel light to warn the operator of low lube oil pressure in the drive. Further, the new hydraulic pump drive also includes high-contact ratio spur gears for quieter operation and ease of service and cylindrical roller bearings are also used, eliminating the need to shim the beatings.
The new pump drive configuration is also the first of what is expected to be an expanded emphasis on pump drives for Funk. According to Jim Huffman, sales manager, part of that program is increased emphasis on distributor pump drive sales and packaging. This is being done, said Huffman, as Funk distributors are doing more and more work with smaller equipment manufacturers.
The Funk distributors, totaling 22 worldwide, keep unsealed pump drives in stock, as well as gear ratio sets, power take-offs, a range of inputs, clutches, pump adapters and plates that allow them to essentially "build" a pump drive for a specific customer application. There are also 27 service dealers worldwide that support Funk's OEM direct programs.
Some distributors are packaging the Funk pump drives with Deere engines as a complete hydraulic power unit, while others are packaging hydraulic pumps with the pump drives, giving the equipment manufacturer a full hydraulic drive package.
As detailed in August, Funk is now the exclusive sales agent of International Transmissions Ltd., for the Americas. This adds a complementary range of transmissions and axles to Funk's axle and transmission range.
Sorry, I'd rather have a Honda
Two years ago I celebrated the centenary of Rolls-Royce by driving a Silver Ghost, the first of the marque to go into series- production. The example exhibited at the Motor Show in November 1906 was dubbed the 40/50' by then 12 cars had been tested to destruction and the 13th, painted and plated in silver, seemed so magnificent that mere numbers would no longer do and it became the Silver Ghost.
Motoring correspondents of its day wrote of riding in the Ghost as being wafted through the air, as though the wheels were not in contact with the ground, in total silence, at speeds quite unimaginable. Autocar magazine in 1907 was responsible for the myth that "one's auditory nerves" heard nothing louder than the dashboard clock.
Were they blind, deaf and comprehensively insensate? To drive an early Ghost now - cosseted, adored and venerated for a century - is to be deafened by the racket, and to have one's teeth so loosened by the juddering, that the sane man must prefer to travel in a horse- drawn cart.
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During the many years of its manufacture, the suspension of the Ghost was revised, refined and improved, yet it obstinately remained a creature familiar to any charioteer of Julius Caesar's day' and even when the Ghost was replaced by the Phantom I in 1925, the old chassis soldiered on for four more years, carrying the new engine.
The engine may well have been the smoothest, quietest and most flexible of its day, and there can be no doubting its reliability, but in truth it looks and sounds like a barrel-organ built for the Black Dyke Mills Band. It is a big six of 7,036cc, producing 50bhp at 1,500rpm - hardly enough for sparkling performance when bodies by the great coachbuilders of the day brought the on-the-road weight to the best part of three tonnes. That weight was an essential part of keeping the wheels in contact with the road and smoothing out the bounce.
In 1909 the capacity was increased to 7,428cc and by 1911 power had risen to 58bhp. Right at the end of its lifespan, in 1925, it had been persuaded to give 85bhp. By then it had been mated to a variety of three-and four-speed gearboxes with ratios that always made it possible to drive in top gear and no other - a signal advantage to drivers who could not master the business of double- declutching for a silent change.
The British public, restrained by an early speed-limit of 20mph, were less interested in speed than in a car's ability to do everything required of it in top gear. Double declutching to match the rotating speeds of the gears was virtually impossible for most private owners who, if confronted by a hill, were inclined to stop, select the gear in which the car might climb it and stay in it rather than risk the crash of gear-grinding on the move.
Rolls-Royce offered reassurance with a very early Ghost driven from Bexhill to Glasgow in top, and in 1911 this feat was capped by a car driven from London to Edinburgh and back, followed by a speed trial at Brook lands in which the car, nicknamed The Sluggard, roared round the circuit at 78.26mph.
A 15,000-mile road trial to and forth between London and Glasgow without a forced stop further substantiated the car's claim to be reliable. Then a single-seater Ghost circled Brook-lands at 101mph. When in India a Ghost, deprived of tools and with its bonnet locked so that its oil and water could not be topped up, climbed six mountain passes in a row, the car became the favoured marque of nawabs and maharajahs.
The first advertisement for the Ghost then asked the question: "Is this the best car in the world?'" The second unhesitatingly stated that it was. We have believed it ever since.
Was it ever true? Response in Britain to the Ghost was so ecstatic that R-R dropped all other models to concentrate on it and production rose to seven cars a week. I am content to believe that it was, in its first incarnation, the best-made car in the world, the most scrupulously considered in every tiny detail, that the tolerances were such that nothing could ever bend, distort or sheer.
But if the legend meant that the Ghost's engine, gearbox, brakes and suspension were so far in advance of the engineering of the day that they required nothing but a little tinkering to keep R-R ahead of all its rivals, then it was a downright lie.
Royce was a perfectionist rather than an innovator, content to make better what had already been made before. It was Rolls, killed in a flying accident in 1910, who determined that their cars should be big and powerful, that their bodies should all be built by the great coach-builders - exclusive, inventive and expensive independent craftsmen - and it was Rolls who drove the marque into the headlines and high society.
Motoring correspondents of its day wrote of riding in the Ghost as being wafted through the air, as though the wheels were not in contact with the ground, in total silence, at speeds quite unimaginable. Autocar magazine in 1907 was responsible for the myth that "one's auditory nerves" heard nothing louder than the dashboard clock.
Were they blind, deaf and comprehensively insensate? To drive an early Ghost now - cosseted, adored and venerated for a century - is to be deafened by the racket, and to have one's teeth so loosened by the juddering, that the sane man must prefer to travel in a horse- drawn cart.
Advertisement
During the many years of its manufacture, the suspension of the Ghost was revised, refined and improved, yet it obstinately remained a creature familiar to any charioteer of Julius Caesar's day' and even when the Ghost was replaced by the Phantom I in 1925, the old chassis soldiered on for four more years, carrying the new engine.
The engine may well have been the smoothest, quietest and most flexible of its day, and there can be no doubting its reliability, but in truth it looks and sounds like a barrel-organ built for the Black Dyke Mills Band. It is a big six of 7,036cc, producing 50bhp at 1,500rpm - hardly enough for sparkling performance when bodies by the great coachbuilders of the day brought the on-the-road weight to the best part of three tonnes. That weight was an essential part of keeping the wheels in contact with the road and smoothing out the bounce.
In 1909 the capacity was increased to 7,428cc and by 1911 power had risen to 58bhp. Right at the end of its lifespan, in 1925, it had been persuaded to give 85bhp. By then it had been mated to a variety of three-and four-speed gearboxes with ratios that always made it possible to drive in top gear and no other - a signal advantage to drivers who could not master the business of double- declutching for a silent change.
The British public, restrained by an early speed-limit of 20mph, were less interested in speed than in a car's ability to do everything required of it in top gear. Double declutching to match the rotating speeds of the gears was virtually impossible for most private owners who, if confronted by a hill, were inclined to stop, select the gear in which the car might climb it and stay in it rather than risk the crash of gear-grinding on the move.
Rolls-Royce offered reassurance with a very early Ghost driven from Bexhill to Glasgow in top, and in 1911 this feat was capped by a car driven from London to Edinburgh and back, followed by a speed trial at Brook lands in which the car, nicknamed The Sluggard, roared round the circuit at 78.26mph.
A 15,000-mile road trial to and forth between London and Glasgow without a forced stop further substantiated the car's claim to be reliable. Then a single-seater Ghost circled Brook-lands at 101mph. When in India a Ghost, deprived of tools and with its bonnet locked so that its oil and water could not be topped up, climbed six mountain passes in a row, the car became the favoured marque of nawabs and maharajahs.
The first advertisement for the Ghost then asked the question: "Is this the best car in the world?'" The second unhesitatingly stated that it was. We have believed it ever since.
Was it ever true? Response in Britain to the Ghost was so ecstatic that R-R dropped all other models to concentrate on it and production rose to seven cars a week. I am content to believe that it was, in its first incarnation, the best-made car in the world, the most scrupulously considered in every tiny detail, that the tolerances were such that nothing could ever bend, distort or sheer.
But if the legend meant that the Ghost's engine, gearbox, brakes and suspension were so far in advance of the engineering of the day that they required nothing but a little tinkering to keep R-R ahead of all its rivals, then it was a downright lie.
Royce was a perfectionist rather than an innovator, content to make better what had already been made before. It was Rolls, killed in a flying accident in 1910, who determined that their cars should be big and powerful, that their bodies should all be built by the great coach-builders - exclusive, inventive and expensive independent craftsmen - and it was Rolls who drove the marque into the headlines and high society.
Machining Center
The Cincinnati Gear Company, full service manufacturer of gears and gearboxes worldwide, has added a new machining center to its manufacturing equipment. The T-30 Horizontal Machining Center will be used to machine housings and component gears up to 40 in. by 40 in. With the acquisition of the T-30, Cincinnati Gear manufactures more parts in less time, thus increasing production, the company said. As a palletized machine, the T-30 can work on one piece while the operator sets up a second, third or fourth. Additionally, the T-30 is equipped with inspection capabilities to ensure quality products to the customer. The T-30 is a fully automatic machine, including tool selection and positioning, cutting feeds selection, spindle speeds and coolant control. The T-30's 90 tool positioner for milling, drilling, tapping, boring and reaming can be changed automatically during just one handling or the work piece, saving additional time and energy
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